The easiest fireplace to give. Do-it-yourself fireplace in the country
The depth of the firebox must reach 30 cm or more, which is necessary for the safe operation of the chamber. In this case, some experienced craftsmen use a little trick: they make a protrusion of the upper beam jumper in the firebox by about 5-6 cm in relation to the vertical axis. In this case, the depth of the combustion chamber will be less than 30 cm.
Walls and heat transfer
In a small fireplace there are two calorific channels located on the side walls. They provide an increase in heat transfer. When wood is burned in the fireplace, cold air from the room enters the 2-3 level channels, heats up there and returns to the room through the holes in the 13-14th row.
Self-construction of a mini-fireplace for a summer residence
The construction of this heating device for a country house is notable for its simplicity. The only difficult process is the overlap of the firebox. When laying a fireplace tooth, some irregularities are allowed, since it is lined with a sheet of metal, respectively, all inaccuracies will be hidden.
A wood-burning mini-fireplace is suitable for use in the autumn-winter season, but it will be problematic for him to cope with a frosty winter. But in a warmer period, this device will heat a room with an area of 16 to 20 m². One of the clear advantages of a mini-fireplace is its low cost: the purchase of all the necessary elements will cost about 5-8 thousand rubles.
One of the most suitable materials for building a fireplace is high-quality red brick. Work begins with the laying of ten rows of the back wall. In the next two levels, it is necessary to make an overlap of 1/4 brick in size. When laying the side walls, it is necessary to provide for a turn at an angle of 25 degrees, while leaving vertical channels. In the third row, you need to make holes that provide passage for cold air. This contributes to the additional heating of the room.
On the back wall of the firebox in the 11-12th row, protrusions are provided for the formation of a smoke tooth. Four metal pins are also mounted here, which will hold the inclined stainless steel screen. The back wall can be made of treated brick.
The dimensions of the fireplace at the base, excluding the pipe, are 1020x510 mm, height - 1120 mm. The cleaning door is installed on the rear wall, which allows you to clean the chimney tooth from ash and soot.
The design of this mini-fireplace for giving is slightly different from the original, which was offered in the original source. In our case, the arch that covers the fuel chamber is made of 9 bricks, not 7, as originally indicated. In the presented project, the gaps between the bricks of the arch are reduced. The central brick has non-standard dimensions and is rather narrow.
Download project
You can download the project of a small fireplace in PDF and DOC formats.
Questions and answers
Question: Is it allowed to connect such a fireplace with a heating stove 51x140 cm in the shape of the letter L?
Answer: We advise you to place the elements side by side or back to back, and make the pipe with two separate channels. Then the stove and the fireplace are guaranteed not to interfere with each other.
AT: Why is this project not about refractory bricks? Or are ordinary bars used for laying the firebox?
O: This fireplace is a summer cottage, that is, it is not intended for permanent use. Therefore, the entire structure is made of ordinary brick. It means that with a firebox once a week, nothing bad will happen.
AT: Can this fireplace be connected to the Krokha stove?
O: The cross section of the chimney at the "Crumbs" will have to be increased. The channels will most likely need to be reversed so that the ascender is placed on the side of the fireplace. It needs to be tried.
AT: Can this device be laid out of bricks measuring 230x120x60 mm?
O: Yes, but the bars will have to be customized.
- On the 17-18th row, the formation of a brick pipe begins. Can it be extended further from metal (round product) and brought out at an angle of 45 degrees to the street? Estimated pipe diameter is 100 mm.
- Does the valve need to be installed before the metal pipe or can it be somehow built into it?
- How is the pipe connected to the brick base?
- It is allowed, but the cross section must be no less than that of a brick pipe. A diameter of 100 mm will not be enough.
- Install the valve where it is convenient.
- It is desirable to have a special adapter from rectangular to round. This element is immured in a brick pipe. A round metal-rolling product is connected to it.
AT: Is it possible to replace the fireplace arch with a straight one with the same protrusion? If so, in what order should the corner be laid?
O: On the 11th row and on it, make an overlap. Provide gaps so that when heated, the corner does not break the masonry.
- What is the recommended diameter of a round metal pipe?
- What height should she have after 17-18 rows, taking into account the diameter that you recommend?
- It so happened that the size of the fireclay brick turned out to be slightly smaller, the parameters of the grate were 120x120 mm. Is it critical?
- 200 mm.
- 4-5 m.
- No, it's not critical.
AT: Is it allowed to use ordinary metal instead of stainless steel?
O: Yes, but it is necessary to provide options for replacement when burning.
AT: How to purchase this device?
O: You can not buy a brick fireplace. However, you can order masonry according to the project from a stove-maker in your city or fold the device yourself.
AT: How much will it cost to build a fireplace?
O: For pricing, check with the stove-makers in your area. Everyone has their own prices. It depends on the experience of the master and the complexity of the project.
AT: Is it possible to use an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 200 mm? If so, how to make a joint between a square pipe and a round AC? Or can only a metal product be used for a chimney?
O: For heating or heating-cooking stoves, AC pipes are sometimes used. The flue gas temperature in these devices does not exceed 150 °C. The pipe can hold up to 300°C. The temperature in the fireplace will be much higher. Therefore, it is impossible to put an asbestos-cement product here. For conversions to a round tube, ask those who sell such products.
With the soft warmth that the fireplace creates in the room, you don’t want to part even if you spend time in a country cottage. Moreover, there he will serve for his intended purpose. A house that has stood without tenants for some time is filled with cold, dampness, loneliness, sadness and other negative energy epithets.
The heating system, which the summer resident immediately uses, will not be able to quickly warm up the entire room, so it is useful to use a fireplace. Although it has the function of local heating, it will allow you to wait a certain time, admiring the picturesque picture of the flame from burning firewood.
Nice and useful tool
Ready portable options
To quickly create a cozy atmosphere in a small country house, small fireplaces that can be easily transported to any place will help. Consider their main types:
- Metal or cast iron wood burning fireplace. It is unrealistic to transport it constantly, as you visit the dacha, but its dimensions allow you to install it in rooms that experience a shortage of free space. The downside is the need to design a chimney. This is done once, so you can try not only to look at the fire, but also to heat the whole room with it.
- A special mini fireplace for a country house, powered by biofuel, is convenient and compact. You can bring it with you every time and, in the bedroom, in the hallway. In a word, move it to its place of residence. However, such models are not able to heat the house, albeit a country one. Also, you will need to bring your own.
- Electric fireplace, built-in or freestanding. A variety of models will allow you to choose the option that suits your room. There are two outcomes here: buy a free-standing mini fireplace or. This portal can be of the smallest possible size so as not to lose the usable area of an already small room.
Electrical analogue of the traditional system
Almost all of the listed options in terms of their functions will not yield to real fireplaces and can easily cope with a room of 15-20 m 2. Moreover, do not forget about appearance and the combination of the device with the interior. A dacha is not always a temporary place for storing agricultural tools. In most cases, it represents a full-fledged house or cottage, which is decorated in a single way. Therefore, the selection of a fireplace should be treated like painting a picture.
11. Smoke tooth bricks are even more shifted towards the firebox. The arch is made of the same bricks. The thickness of the middle is somewhat reduced.
12. The arch is covered and the smoke tooth is formed.
13-14. In the side walls, the heater channel has holes through which heated air will enter the space of the room.
15-17. The firebox is covered, forming a ledge, which is decorative. In the middle, the future chimney is laid. Traditional brick fireplace
A small firebox, when properly installed, can provide enough heat to heat a small room. On the back wall, above the smoke tooth, you can install a door that will make it possible to clean the fireplace from soot and dust. However, if such a fireplace is located close to the wall, then it is almost impossible to perform this procedure through the specified door. Therefore, its installation is just a recommendation. With this arrangement of the fireplace, carbon deposits can be removed through the firebox, especially since the inclined screen is easily dismantled.
It should be noted that this type of fireplace refers to instances with an open firebox. This means that there is a possibility of hot coals falling out. So that this unpleasant fact does not lead to a fire, it is necessary to equip a semblance of a platform of refractory material around the base of the fireplace.
In all other respects, this device is safe and functional. Once again, you can experiment, but this design is the most optimal and has high heat transfer rates.
Our effort to follow the most profitable path leads to the fact that many seemingly complex designs can be made in ordinary home conditions. To do this, we need to be patient and follow the appropriate instructions.
A handmade fireplace seems to become warmer and more comfortable than the one purchased in the store. But we do not reject alternative options. In addition, purchased models are equipped with a number of additional useful options. These are remote control, constant temperature control, automatic flame control.
Each person chooses for himself the best option, which is based on the cost or cost of the product. In this regard, a homemade fireplace has a huge advantage.
The appearance of the fireplace is greatly benefited when there are special decorative elements on its facade. Shelves, niches and various locks can be considered as such elements.
In order to make a wedge lock for our fireplace, we take 6 full-fledged bricks and lay them out on a flat and horizontal surface at an angle to each other (without a central element).
Lay out the bricks, laying out the corner, mark them and be sure to number them.
Then make the middle of the castle structure by sawing a wedge out of a solid brick. These works are best done with a “grinder” with a power of up to a kilowatt, cutting off a brick with a cutting wheel with a diamond coating on ceramics.
The castle is ready, it remains only to install it in the right place in the masonry.
Before “seating” into the masonry, we install it in the place where it will be installed, and without the use of a solution. Everything should be installed smoothly, and the slope in both directions should be symmetrical.
We install the wedge lock “dry” - without a solution for fitting.
Then we measure out two bricks on each side in order to cut off their ends and make them fixing from the edges. And then we “seat” the entire structure of the castle onto the solution.
The lock is in place.
After the lock is installed, our task is to raise the walls of the fireplace insert to the desired level (1 row above the fireplace door).
Step 7 we make the overlap of the combustion chamber of the fireplace and install the heat exchanger
It is very important to lay out fireplaces (stoves) and at the same time use metal objects as little as possible to create ceilings in places where there is a possibility high temperatures. The highest temperature is observed near the roof of the combustion chamber. In this regard, it is necessary to make the vault in such a way that it does not have to be used to cover it with metal corners. The easiest way is to make the vault of the firebox narrow and close on the third row of masonry. To do this, we use the scheme - the first row of overlap - we use a brick long = ¾ of a brick, the second row of overlap is a solid brick, and the third row is a strapping one, for a lintel.
We lay the bricks of the first row of the lintel. We cut off the lower edge of the bricks both in length and from below at an angle. To make them fall inward, we press their ends with bricks.
We make a heat exchanger for a home heating system from a corrugated pipe made of stainless steel. At this stage (let's call it "fitting"), our task is to prepare a place in which the heat exchanger will be installed in the future. Our task is to place it in front of the hood opening in the chimney. Here the highest speed of convection flows, and hence the heat transfer will be the highest. It is imperative to use high alloy stainless steel pipe for two reasons.
- The temperature in this part of the furnace can reach up to 700 degrees, which means that ordinary steel will give scale from interaction with oxygen, gradually collapsing. Typically, the service life of devices that use heat exchangers placed in an open flame is no more than three years, then they have to be dismantled. In our case, we would have to disassemble the fireplace masonry.
- The second condition why a stainless steel pipe is used is a highly aggressive environment during the “inactivity” of the fireplace. The fact is that the composition of the smoke is active substances that, interacting with water droplets that have fallen in the form of condensate onto the heat exchanger, turn into carbonic acid and gradually corrode the pipe made of ordinary steel.
This is what the groove for the heat exchanger looks like.
In order to avoid additional heat loss from the heat exchanger to the brickwork, it is necessary to make thermal insulation. The best option is to make it from 5 mm thick basalt cardboard.
We prepare the heat exchanger for wrapping with basalt cardboard.
When performing such work, it is necessary to take into account the factor of the total thickness, which will be after you perform thermal insulation. It should not be more than the thickness of one brick. This is necessary in order to ideally place this device in the fireplace masonry. The second prerequisite is that when wrapping, this procedure must be performed separately for each branch of the heat exchanger.
By winding the basalt cardboard in the form of a “roll”, be sure to wrap it in such a way that there are no waves and irregularities, this is very important when installing the device in the masonry so that it sits firmly and does not “dangle” after the start of operation of the fireplace.
Many years of experience in installing such devices has shown that the most reliable and functional device for fastening basalt cardboard is the usual twisting of copper wire with a diameter of 1 mm.
First, we finish the work on thermal insulation of one branch, then proceed to the same procedure on the second part of the heat exchanger. It is necessary to make at least four twists per 50 cm of thermal insulation.
If you see defects in the laying of thermal insulation, it is better to redo this part of the work.
After both parts of the heat exchanger are thermally insulated, we need to tie them together.
The heat exchanger is ready, it remains to place it in the prepared groove of the furnace.
We place the heat exchanger in the masonry. We make sure that it lies vertically, and its thickness is not more than the thickness of the brick row of masonry
If everything is fine, we seal it with a solution and press it with the next row of masonry. Thoroughly coat with a solution all the places where the rows pass so that the tightness of the combustion and convection chambers is not broken.
A well-sealed seam will give you a reliable guarantee that the oven will not smoke into the convection chamber, and therefore into the room.
The heat exchanger is ready for operation - the tightness of the seams is not satisfactory!
The efficiency of fireplaces is always a sore point for their owners, usually up to 75% of the heat flies into the chimney. In winter, such devices heat the street, not the house. To increase the usefulness of fireplaces, various tricks are used. The simplest thing is to change the vault of the combustion chamber, to make it not exactly rectangular, but in the form of a trapezoid. To do this, the first row of the overlap of the combustion chamber is cut at an angle, and then a jumper is made over it with the upper row. This method creates additional areas of turbulence in the firebox and thus improves the efficiency of the fireplace.
The first row of the jumper above the firebox is made of bricks ¾ long and at the same time its lower edge is cut off. Above it is a row of strapping. A heat exchanger is placed in the outlet of the exhaust gases.
The entire firebox, including the rows of jumpers, must be made of fireclay bricks. The fact is that the M-150 ceramic brick used does not make it possible to operate the fireplace for ten years without any repair, unlike fireclay bricks.
The combustion chamber is ready. The rows of binding of the firebox securely fix the bricks of the vault. The chimney opening must be at least 300 cm2.
Step 8 - Mounting the Walls
We proceed to the installation of the walls of the fireplace. It is very important to observe the verticality of the fireplace design and its linear dimensions. Two stretched threads fixed at the base can be considered a very reliable assistant.
There is a very subtle technique when laying fireplaces at this stage of work. Usually the fireplace is designed in such a way that its upper part is hollow. This is usually a sheet of drywall over the casing of the fireplace insert cassette and that's it. The main heat transfer occurs when the fireplace is heated. As soon as the fire goes out, there is a very rapid cooling of the rooms that it heated. Therefore, many homeowners often consider fireplaces in their home interiors more as a decoration than an element of the heating system. Let's do a little trick to get away from this stereotype. Our fireplace has two convection chambers. They work on the principle of natural air movement (when heated, it expands, becomes lighter and rises, it is replaced by cold, heavier air from below). Our task is to make this process last as long as possible. To do this, we must increase the mass of heated bricks in the fireplace masonry.
The easiest way to do this is to increase the volume of masonry above the firebox so that at the time of the combustion process this part heats up and then gives off heat for a longer time to air flows passing through the convection chambers. We need to raise eight rows of masonry around the chimney above the combustion chamber. This will ensure the accumulation of heat by the masonry for at least 6-8 hours of space heating.
On the outer part of the masonry we display a decorative element. It complements the lower shelf above the blower door and organically completes the top of the fireplace.
What a fireplace without decorative elements, we proceed to the laying of a decorative ledge.
We make a ledge according to the principle of pushing the brick outward along ¼ of its width. We make a ledge along the entire length of the perimeter.
Initially, we lay out a solid brick on the ledge. We fill all the incomplete parts of the brick with cut-off "grinder" bricks.
If you feel that the masonry is falling outward, then try placing a metal corner under the base of the row that has begun to move.
A metal corner is placed under the upper row of the protrusion. It will remain in the masonry until the next row of masonry is laid.
After two rows of the ledge are laid out, we proceed to narrow the masonry by ¼ of the brick.
Ventilation hatch of the convection chamber, from the side of the living room.
Above the decorative ledge, we must finish the convection chambers, because the masonry temperature drops again towards the chimney exhaust and the efficiency of the system will noticeably decrease. You can conduct an experiment - light a match and bring the flame to the convection hatch while stoking the fireplace. If the flame is “blown out”, then the convection chambers work perfectly and they can heat up a large room. If the flame fluctuates, but continues to burn, then the exhaust hatches are made high, or the thickness of the walls between the convection chamber and the firebox is very thick and the air does not have time to warm up from passing through this section of the fireplace.
We lay the exhaust hatches located on the side of the bedroom. There are two of them, one for each convection chamber. To make laying easier, we put a brick in each exhaust hole without mortar, and then go up the rise of the masonry rows.
On the third row above the decorative ledge we make a jumper over the convection chambers. It makes no sense to raise them higher. The jumper is made by the method of conducting masonry "poke". Bricks in it are installed across the air channel. Then another continuous row is laid out above it, and then only the chimney and the outer part of the brickwork are carried out.
Raise the outer wall of the fireplace. We track its verticality and linear dimensions. The interior of the masonry is hollow.
Before laying the chimney casing, we make another decorative ledge.
In order not to damage the masonry, let the mortar stand for a couple of days, then we make a plank platform so as not to damage the masonry of the rows, and only then we continue to work.
To perform the overlap, we used a 50 mm metal corner. The mistake of many is that they set the thickness of the casing overlap in one row of masonry - at least two rows are needed to make a reliable strapping of this masonry step
The ceiling is ready, we track the masonry defects and prepare the material for laying the pipe.
If overlap defects are found, then the easiest way is to fill the horizontal surface with mortar.
Then we begin the process of lifting the pipe laying. On the second row we build in a view to regulate the pipe duct. The process of laying the pipe itself has been described in previous works and is standard. You can get acquainted, for example, in the work "
Why can't we rely on the fireplace as a source of lasting energy? The point is that it heats the house. radiant energy, which occurs on the hot surfaces of the fireplace walls. Yes, it heats up the room quickly. However, heat is felt only when the fire is burning.The fireplace is not designed for long-term heat retention: it gives it away only at the moment of fuel combustion. Is this how much or do you need to stock up to keep the fire going? Yes, and the presence of a stoker also does not hurt. Although we are neither warm nor cold from this figure, the efficiency of the fire cave is about 15%. Almost like a steam locomotive. In other words, sorry for the firewood.
However, from the point of view of country romance and strengthening family values, the fireplace undoubtedly occupies a central place in the house. Crackling firewood and a live fire in an open firebox (but preferably behind a transparent screen made of refractory glass), which you can look at endlessly, fascinates, pacifies and relaxes. This is the "signature" appeal of the fireplace, which distinguishes it from the usual. To paraphrase the poet Mark Sadovsky, "I love the fireplace not for the fire - for the close circle of friends." Or at least immediate family and neighbors.
So a fireplace in the country is a common thing.
In addition to the traditional red, you will need refractory brick for firebox- fireclay. The mortar for laying the body of the fireplace is being prepared clay, quartz sand and water. And the foundation must be laid for cement mortar.
But there are pleasant, one might say, encouraging exceptions. Knauf labels the bags to the nearest second. Moreover, these numbers-marks are clearly visible. In one warehouse, in one market container, all bags should be with close timestamps, but all are different.
Fans of avant-garde solutions are ready to build a reinforced concrete fireplace. The justification can be either free cement, or an acute shortage of bricks, or the desire for originality. After all, constructing formwork, knitting reinforcement and vibrating the concrete mixture is an amateur job. And with the worst thermal results.
Fireplace cladding performed with a variety of materials: or, ceramic or marble. In the construction markets, you can find ready-made kits for a fireplace, where, in addition to facing materials, the kit includes a mortar and all the parts necessary for work.
When developing a general concept for the design of a room, you can use the same cladding for adjacent surfaces, as is done in the photo. So the fireplace fits more organically into the interior. But all this should be decided at the project stage, and not at the last moment.
Chimney: indisputable truths
There are several normative documents, along which the construction and installation of smoke channels (pipes) for fireplaces should be carried out. This is:- SNiP 2.04.05-86 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning",
- GOST 9817-82 “Combined household appliances operating on solid fuel. General technical conditions",
- PPB 01-03 "Fire safety rules in the Russian Federation".
- Wall and root smoke channels should be laid out solid red ceramic bricks of the highest quality(grade not lower than M100), normal firing, without cracks and impurities.
- The thickness of the masonry joints should be no more than 10 mm. Loose seams are not allowed at all.
- In terms of fire resistance, the wall thickness of the brick smoke channel should be not less than 120 mm.
- Its inner surface should be smooth, not plastered.
- From the outside, the brick smoke channel in the attic (mansard) room must be plastered and whitewashed. Wherein it is forbidden to place it next to the elements of the rafter structure.
- The distance from the inner surface of the smoke channel (cut size) to the protected combustible building structure must be at least 250 mm, and to the unprotected structure - at least 380 mm.
- The free space between the chimney and roof structures should be to cover with a roofing steel apron. This caveat alone indicates the limited choice of places to install the fireplace itself.
- It is advisable to mount the smoke channels vertically, without ledges. Although, if the internal layout does not allow this, channels with a ledge are allowed at an angle of no more than 30° to the vertical and horizontal deviation no more than 1 m.
- If the smoke channel is rectangular, its internal dimensions must be at least 140x270 mm. And if a steel sandwich chimney of circular cross section is used, then its inner diameter must exceed 200 mm.
The smoke channel can be lightweight steel coaxial (pipe in pipe) chimney with a layer of basalt fiber between the shells. Here I would like to warn future users against using cheap fakes. You might reasonably ask what the difference is. The fact is that basalt material is different:
- The most common is used for thermal insulation. The adhesive composition holding basalt fibers is designed for a temperature of about 250 ° C.
- There is also a fire-retardant basalt material, where the adhesive composition already holds 750 ° C. Although in both cases, basalt fibers are used, which begin their own melting at a temperature of 950 ° C.
Summary: a factory-made coaxial chimney with high-quality fire-retardant basalt material will completely remove the problem of delivering exhaust gases during combustion to the atmosphere.
And a few words about fire safety rules:
- Once a year, be sure to check the smoke channels: what is the condition of their inner walls and is there any soot on them.
- It is necessary to clean the flue Pbefore startingheating season and during it- at least once every 2 months.
You can read about how to competently clean fireplace chimneys in modern ways in the article.