National costumes of the peoples of the southern Urals nrk. Presentation "folk costume of the Chelyabinsk region" Description of the national clothes of one of the peoples of the Urals
The publication is devoted to the study of the Russian traditional costume of the Ural inhabitants. Materials for making clothes, costume items, outerwear, hats and shoes are considered. The book is addressed to ethnographers, folklorists and anyone interested in Russian folk culture.
Ethnographer D.K. Zelenin in 1904 wrote in a guide to the Kama region about the benefits of traveling. “Life is infinitely varied; and a person who is tired, exhausted in the life struggle for existence, or simply from the mere contemplation of this struggle in some center, will contemplate the calm, patriarchal "vegetation" of a provincial town or village with great relief and quiet joy. Fresh forces, new energy will suddenly come from somewhere in it ... ”(Zelenin, 1904, p. 2). These words, spoken a hundred years ago, seem especially timely today. Today, in the age of information and speed, a person needs to touch something unhurried, stable, which has remained constant for many years.
The traditional costume is the most stable component of the material culture of the people. It took shape over a long period of the history of the people and passed on to subsequent generations as a cultural heritage. The dynamics of costume development reflects the impact of social, economic, and ethnic factors on traditional culture. Changing under the influence of historical conditions, the traditional costume continues to retain archaic features to this day. The study of the costume enriches us with knowledge about the material and spiritual culture of the Russian people.
Interest in ethnographic research arose quite early. We meet the first ethnographic information about the Russian population of the Urals from travelers, members of academic expeditions in the Urals. These expeditions were undertaken in the 18th century. with the aim of describing and studying the natural resources of Russia, necessary for its economic development, therefore, information about the life of the population in these works is fragmentary. So, P.S. Pallas makes interesting remarks in his diaries about a special method of dyeing leather used at the tannery in Byngi, as well as about the use of forest balsam for dyeing wool at the Chernoistochinsky factory (Pallas, 1786, p. 243,246).
In general, in the observations of researchers of the 18th century, the life and culture of the “foreign” and aboriginal population of the territories under consideration are represented to a much greater extent compared to Russian culture.
In the 19th century the study of the ethnography of the Russian population of the Middle Urals becomes purposeful. In 1804, the work of a member of the Free Economic Society N.S. Popov "Economic description of the Perm province according to its civil and natural state", which provides interesting information about the costume of different groups of the population - about the "Russian dress" worn by merchants and petty bourgeois, "residents of private factories" and rural peasants. The author describes the processes of manufacturing and dyeing fabrics, points out the methods of decorating garments, and also draws attention to the difference in the condition of the clothes of the peasants of the southern and northern districts of the Perm province, notes the spread of fashion for the costume of schismatics in private factories. The work of N.S. Popova made a significant contribution to the study of the costume of the Russian population of the Perm Territory and, as a source, has not lost its significance today.
A lot of work on collecting information about Russian ethnography has been done by the Department of Ethnography of the Russian Geographical Society (RGO). In 1848, he developed and sent out a program for the study of folk life. Correspondents - teachers, doctors, volost clerks, employees of statistical committees, priests - reported information about the life and costume of their contemporaries. Correspondents' messages contain information about the materials from which clothes were made, about the festive and everyday clothes of the peasant and factory population. Some materials, including those on the Perm province, were published by D.K. Zelenin (Zelenin D.K., Description of Manuscripts of the Scientific Archive of the Russian Geographical Society. V.1. Issue Z. Petrograd, 1916).
Information from voluntary correspondents was also used by Professor V.F. Miller, curator of the Dashkovo Ethnographic Museum, in an essay on the peasant clothing of the inhabitants of the Perm province (Miller V.F., Systematic description of the collection of the Dashkovo Ethnographic Museum. Issue 3. M., 1893).
Information about the clothes of the factory and peasant population contains a comprehensive work on the geography, industry and the state of the population of the Perm province, published by the General Staff (Mosel X. Materials for the geography and statistics of Russia, collected by officers of the General Staff. Perm province. 4.2. St. Petersburg., 1864). The publications mentioned contain information of undoubted historical value and serve as important sources of the 19th century.
In the second half of the XIX - early XX century. ethnographic study of the peasants was carried out by amateur local historians. The result of their observations is the publication of folklore records and descriptions of the life of the Russian people in periodicals (newspapers "Perm Gubernskie Vedomosti", "Perm Diocesan Vedomosti") and special ("Perm Territory", "Perm Collection") editions. In articles, notes, essays on the life and culture of the people, there are also descriptions of the costume of the Ural inhabitants. Researchers I.V. Vologdin, N.E. Onchukov, I. Sherstobitov, Ya. Predtechensky, with varying degrees of completeness, covered the issues of the existence of traditional clothing.
Materials on ethnography were also published by local scientific societies: the Ural Society of Natural Science Lovers, the Perm Scientific Archival Commission, the Circle for the Study of the Northern Territory at Perm University (which published the Perm Collection of Local Lore). During this period, local historians recorded material on the manufacture and use of clothing, the authors did not set the task of identifying the historical roots of culture, studying the processes of costume development. Local historians and ethnographers made a significant contribution to the study of the life of the Ural inhabitants: a large amount of factual material was introduced into scientific circulation. Most of the works on the ethnography of the Russian population of the Urals, in which attention was paid to the costume, were descriptive.
The first research work on the study of the costume can be called the article by A.F. Teploukhov "Women's headdresses of Permians and their relation to the ancient headdresses of the local Russian population", published in 1916. It contains significant illustrative and descriptive material. The author points to the borrowing of Russian women's headdresses by the Komi-Permyaks in the period from the beginning of the 16th to the beginning of the 18th centuries, as well as the preservation of Russian headdresses and a sundress in the cultural tradition of the Komi-Permyaks (p. 128). The work of A.F. Teploukhov is an important contribution to the study of folk costume.
Qualitative changes in the study of folk life occur when museums and institutes begin to deal with the ethnography of the population of the Urals. Expeditions of the State Historical Museum 1925-1927 and 1949-1950 examined factory settlements in order to highlight the history of the formation of the proletariat (Work and life of the workers and peasants of the Urals at the end of the 18th and 19th centuries. M., 1927; Historical and household expeditions 1949-1950. M., 1953). Expeditions collected a collection of clothing from the working and peasant population of the Urals.
Since the 1950s expeditions of the Institute of Ethnography of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR actively studied the ethnography of the Russian population of the Urals, the features of the life of the factory and peasant population. As a result of research, significant works on the costume of the Ural population appear. Along with the field materials, archival materials were used in them. Clothing was considered in connection with the process of formation of the population of the Urals and the influence of socio-economic, ethnic factors, the systematization of clothing by type was introduced.
Particularly noteworthy is the work of G.S. Maslova. T.V. Stanyukovich "Material culture of the Russian rural and factory population of the Urals (XIX-early XX century)". The authors reveal the features of the life of the peasant and factory population, give a typology of women's and men's clothing, hats and outerwear. Researchers point to the commonality of the culture of the Ural population with the culture of the population of the Russian North, as well as the presence in the culture of features close to the culture of the population of the Volga region and the central Russian regions (p. 75). G.S. Maslova and T.V. Stanyukovich come to the following conclusions: the life of the population of the Ural factory settlements in the second half of the 19th century. differed from the peasant way of life; the life of the workers had a significant impact on the surrounding peasantry (p. 76); the process of transformation and disappearance of traditional clothing, which took place in the second half of the 19th century, was the result of the penetration of commodity-money relations into the village (p. 104).
Significant work on the study of ways of developing the cultural life of workers has been done by V.Yu. Krupyanskaya and N.S. Polishchuk (Krupyanskaya V.Yu., Polishchuk N.S. Culture and life of the mining Urals: (late XIX - early XX century), Krupyanskaya V.Yu. Experience of ethnographic study of the Ural workers). V.Yu. Krupyanskaya comes to the following conclusions: the cultural forms developed among the old-timers of N. Tagil are genetically linked with the culture of the population of the central provinces of Russia; on the territory of the Urals and the Urals, a local version of culture has developed (p. 86).
Archival and field material collected during expeditions in the Perm region formed the basis of the collective work "On the Ways from the Perm Land to Siberia". In the work, a team of authors considered the issues of settling and forming the Russian rural population of the Northern Urals, economic activities, everyday life and family rituals. The "Clothes" section was written by G.N. Chagin. The author comes to the following conclusions: in the peasant clothing of the North Ural population, the North Russian clothing complex prevailed; in the clothes of the inhabitants of the Kungur and Perm districts, features characteristic of the clothes of the population of the Middle Volga region can be traced (pp. 173,174).
T.A. Listova and I.V. Vlasova in the works on the study of the traditional culture of the population of the Northern Urals also refer to the issues of the existence of traditional clothing (Listova T.A. Clothing of the Russian population of the Perm region, Vlasova I.V. To the study of ethnographic groups of Russians [Yurlintsy]).
Much work on the collection and analysis of material on the costume of the Ural peasantry was done by the head of ethnographic research at Perm University, Professor G.N. Chagin (Ethnocultural history of the Middle Urals at the end of the 17th - the first half of the 19th century, Perm, 1995). In research, field work was accompanied by the study of various archival materials. On the material of clothes, settlements and dwellings of G.N. Chagin points to the special development of northern Russian cultural forms in the Middle Urals (p. 353). The author notes the long-term preservation of archaic forms in the clothing of the Old Believer population (p. 283).
The expeditionary work of the Sverdlovsk Regional House of Folklore (SODF) to collect field material in various regions of the Sverdlovsk Region, which began in 1986, made it possible to accumulate significant materials on the ethnography of the Russian population of the Middle Urals. The SODF fund consists of audio and video materials, a photo archive and a collection of clothing and household items.
In the issue of studying the traditional clothing of the Ural residents, researchers have achieved significant results: they have accumulated factual material and created special works, covering a range of issues related to the existence of uniforms among various categories of the population.
Based on ethnographic materials and written sources, as well as the works of researchers, it is possible to reconstruct the traditional costume of the Russian population of the Middle Urals (XIX - early XX century). To achieve this goal, it is necessary to solve the following tasks: consider the materials for making clothes; analyze complexes of men's and women's clothing and individual items that make them up; on the example of specific samples to identify the typology of costume items.
The chronological framework allows us to trace the dynamics of the evolution of the costume in the 19th - early 20th centuries. The territorial framework of the work is limited to the modern territory of the Sverdlovsk and Perm regions (mainly the Sverdlovsk region) - the former districts of the Perm province.
The work used ethnographic, written and visual sources. The most important for the study are ethnographic: field materials obtained during the SODF expeditions of 1986 - 2005, and material sources - items of folk costume. Oral reports of informants about clothing at the beginning of the 20th century. are characterized by reliability: they are received from eyewitnesses. This source is of particular value, as it provides information about the place and time of the existence of clothing, reveals the features of the methods of its manufacture and wearing.
An important source is folk costume items of the late 19th - early 20th centuries, stored in the collections of museums - the Sverdlovsk Regional Museum of Local Lore, the Nizhny Tagil Museum-Reserve of Mining, the Kamensk-Ural Museum of Local Lore, the Sverdlovsk Regional House of Folklore. The study of traditional clothing items provides the most complete information about the type, cut, methods and materials for making clothing samples. However, often there is no information about the full costume, of which the item in question is a part, the time the item of clothing was used. With a lack of information in the act records for museum objects, the information is depreciated.
Written sources containing ethnographic information are diverse: publications of correspondents' answers to the questionnaire of the Russian Geographical Society, eyewitness manuscripts (GASO, fund 101 UOL), various publications of costume descriptions by researchers of folk life of the 19th-20th centuries. in newspapers (“Permskiye Gubernskiye Vedomosti”, “Permskiye eparchialnye Vedomosti”), special and popular periodicals (“Living Antiquity”, Proceedings of the Perm Scientific Archival Commission).
An important source is the materials of the Dialect Ethno-Ideographic Dictionary (CD, section "Life", compiled by Lipina V.V.). The dictionary contains materials collected during the dialectological expeditions of the Ural State University in 1949-1994. and folklore expeditions SODF 1985-1999.
Differences in the use of terms, as well as the fact that the source often does not contain a description of the cut of clothing, which is the main basis for its classification, are of great difficulty for the study of folk costume based on written materials.
The author also draws on visual materials: paintings of the 19th century. from the collection of the Nizhny Tagil Mining Museum-Reserve, photographs from the beginning of the 20th century. from the collections of museums and private collections, sketches.
Respect for the past - that's the line
distinguishing education from savagery.
A.S. Pushkin
Love for the native land, knowledge of its history -
basis on which alone can
the growth of the spiritual culture of the whole society.
D.S. Likhachev
Large expanses of Russian land have become the reason that the rituals associated with the agricultural calendar, the way of life of the largest group of the population of Russia - the peasantry, are complex and diverse. The traditional Russian clothes are just as complex and varied. This is a whole layer of the culture of the people, which must be known, loved, respected and preserved.
The basis of the collections of ethnographic museums, as a rule, is the costume of the late 18th–20th centuries. Scientists distinguish four sets of clothing: a shirt with a sundress and a kokoshnik, a shirt with a ponytail and a magpie, a shirt with an andarak skirt and a kubelka dress. There are a lot of options for costumes. The sarafan ensemble belongs to the northern and central Russian region, the pony ensemble belongs to the southern Russian region. Of course, this division is rather arbitrary. Any complex is three-part - a headdress, clothes and shoes.
What was it like, the Russian national costume?
Important "peafowl", "dove soul"
It has long been called the girl.
Girl's hands in labor and care
Get used to work from an early age
Weaving and spinning, knitting and sewing,
They sowed, reaped and kneaded the dough.
In difficult work, the back was bent ...
But she went to the party
In a marvelous attire of peasant clothes,
Where is the whole pattern about dream and hope:
Red embroidered zapon and shirt
(Black is grief, which is holy in the homeland),
Along the hem, as in a plowed field,
Patterned rhombuses formed a strip;
Symbols of the sun and signs of the earth.
Mother-life and birds of love.
The neck was decorated with beads, monista,
Beads, corals, golden amber.
All precious headdress -
Embroidered with pearls and golden beat:
Kika, magpie - dress of a young woman,
Kosnik, a crown - an adornment of a girl,
Collection, warrior - a dress for an old woman ...
The most beautiful is the dress of a young woman.
So from time immemorial preserved in Russia
Women's costume of unprecedented beauty!
This is a collective image of a women's costume. And what did the clothes of different provinces look like, how did the northern suit differ from the southern one?
"Preparing the Bride"
Consider this on the examples of the most elegant festive and wedding costume and the outfit of the “young woman” - a woman of the first year of marriage, before the birth of a child. It was the most beautiful outfit, richly decorated with several rows of embroidery, colored weaving, embroidered with lace, gimp, braid. He was complemented by a precious headdress and leather shoes. Throughout the warm season, the peasants walked barefoot or in bast shoes woven from bast or birch bark. An obligatory addition to the costume was a belt-amulet. Women wore a lot of jewelry: beads (sometimes up to 15 rows), necklaces, chains, beaded gerdans with a cross,
all kinds of temporal pendants-cannons, earrings (earrings were sometimes worn by men), rings. A feature of the South Russian costume is the abundance of red.
crowns
Russian folk men's costume
The men's suit throughout Russia was of the same type. From infancy to the "dance" period, the shirt and belt were the only clothes that were the same for children and adults were winter clothes. Men's clothing consisted of a shirt with straight or oblique polka dots and a gusset, a triangular fabric was hemmed under the back - the "underlying", the incision on the neck was more often made on the left, covering it with a placket or sheathed with braid, like the hem and ends of the sleeves. The wedding shirt was decorated along the sleeves and hem with a wide pattern (woven or embroidered). In some provinces, the chest was embroidered. The red pattern had a sacred meaning, served as a talisman against evil forces. The bride prepared such a shirt before the wedding with a prayer, sewing a “letter” in her pattern with a wish for good, family well-being, wealth. The set of clothes included trousers-ports made of homespun cloth, linen, usually blue with a white thin strip. The pants were rather short, as they were tucked into boots or onuchi were wound around them. A cloth or felted hat - a “sinner” and a winter fur coat served as a headdress. Outerwear - a caftan cut off at the waist and a fur coat. The men's hair was cut "under the pot", let go of the beard and mustache.
The scheme of cutting men's clothing
Women's South Russian costume
The most ancient is the South Russian costume of the Oryol, Kursk, Voronezh, Tambov, Ryazan provinces. This is the so-called pony ensemble. He had some resemblance to the Ukrainian, Belarusian, Mordovian costume.
Bride and groom
The set of the costume included: a canvas shirt with slanting poliks, over which a married woman put on a waist-length oar ponyova, an apron-veil, a zapon (shoulder, chest or waist), a headdress - horns, kichka, magpie; a belt and a wide “nas” or “top”; sometimes a young woman went to the crown in a fur coat and a belt to show her wealth.
Hats
Tambov the costume included a shirt with slanting polka dots. For the wedding, they sewed a long-sleeve (weeping) shirt, where the upper part of the sleeve was richly decorated with stripes of marquee (embroidered with patterns) weaving, and the lower part was hemmed from thin fabric. In addition to the poneva, there was an andarak skirt in everyday life, sewn from several panels of thin fabric and gathered at the waist with a drawstring. Outerwear - shushun was made from homespun woolen or cashmere fabric, decorated with cross-stitch, set, trimmed with fringe. The headdress is a horned kiqa with a beaded set or ribbons at the back.
Tambov costume
Voronezh poneva differs in color, the nature of weaving “in three threads”, white checks on a black or red field, with an insert in front of a thin fabric. Poneva was embroidered with typesetting stitch, decorated with colored stripes of yellow, green. The embroidery of the shirt on the shoulder and sleeve is dense - with a “set” and satin stitch; they also made a shirt with oblique inserts of calico with stripes of type-setting weaving. A waist apron-curtain made of canvas was embroidered with double-sided satin stitch, braid. A woven woolen belt relied on the costume, breast decorations - "garousi" (for men - "mushroom", woolen stockings knitted on knitting needles with colored stripes and shoes - "cats").
Voronezh costume
Orlovsky and Kursky the costume has the same main features as the Voronezh one. Poneva was mainly made by peasant women using the technique of weaving, supplemented along the bottom with red and silk ribbons, braid, galloon, lace, and cross-stitch. Braid and ribbons, braided lace and fringe were sewn on the bottom of the apron-curtain made of canvas, wool, satin. A low "magpie" made of satin and chintz, on cardboard, was embroidered with beads, decorated with cannons, a braid on the frontal part. Neck ornaments were beads in several rows, keidans and chains. Shirt sleeves made of calico and calico were decorated with appliqués of rhombuses and corners and stripes of weaving.
Orlovsky suit
Kursk costume
Ryazan the costume was perhaps the most striking in the southern provinces . It is distinguished by the joyful, sonorous color of red calf. Against the backdrop of green meadows and forests, he entered into complete harmony with nature, creating a festive and jubilant emotional mood, inviting people to spring and summer round dances of folklore holidays. A distinctive feature of the Ryazan costume is a special type of outerwear that is worn over a shirt - "nas" made of woolen homemade fabric of mortgage weaving with woven geometric patterns of fertility. Red swing "shushpan" - a kind of this clothing.
The head was tied with a scarf over the kichka. The horned kick with very high horns was also in fashion. The Ryazan costume is massive and wide. So, the width of the nasov is 160, and the height is only 102 cm.
It is simply impossible to describe all the costumes of any region of Russia, since women's attire is a subject of folk art that has only some similar features.
Ryazan costume
On the Don and the North Caucasus Russian women wore a kubelka dress and trousers over a shirt with a knitted cap - an echo of Turkish and Persian clothes, which in the 19th century. were supplanted by a skirt with a jacket in the waist, with a frill. Such clothes now exist among the Cossacks.
Central Russia
In the nature of the clothes of the middle zone, there is an imprint of the regions bordering on it and the historical living conditions of the people. As elsewhere, the basis of the costume is the shirt.
Moscow the folk costume can be seen in the urban petty-bourgeois costume and in the clothes of women of the clergy, who were not affected by the Peter's reform, which introduced the wearing of European "German" clothes for people of the upper classes. Basically, this is a sarafan ensemble with a kokoshnik and an apron above the chest.
Moscow costume
AT Yaroslavl provinces over a sundress wore a warm quilted jacket ("pair") with long sleeves, detachable at the waist, gathered at the back. The “pair” was decorated with gold lace in front. The shirt was embroidered along the shoulder, along the sleeve and along the cuffs with a red pattern interspersed with yellow, green, blue threads. The presence of urban fashion, developed trade made it possible to use light silk or satin fabric for sundresses, and a different cut to give volume to the figure. This is how a wide skew-wedge sundress appeared, decorated in front with a wide “princely” ribbon of galloon (braid) or a silk ribbon with patterns woven or embroidered on it. Patterned ribbons were sewn along the hem. Cast tin or copper, silver-plated or gilded buttons were sewn along the “princely” strip. A belt woven from colored threads was relied on a sundress. The festive costume was complemented by rows of beads, earrings, and cufflinks for the collar. A feature of the wedding costume was a wedding coverlet - a long two-meter towel made of thin linen, decorated at the ends with wide red woven stripes, white lace, and sometimes colored ribbons.
Kokoshniki
For field work, they used a straight shirt with canvas poliks, with numerical lace along the hem and weaving. The head was covered with a factory-made chintz scarf, the costume was complemented by amber or glass beads. Peasant shoes - bast shoes made of oblique weaving.
Western lands
Costume Pskov and Smolensk distinguished by a straight shirt with a richly ornamented shoulder and sleeves. Embroidery with a cross, semi-cross or woven stripes of red rhombuses with the addition of blue, green colors was located in horizontal stripes. A wide pattern could also be located along the hem, and a narrow strip was sewn on the collar of the shirt and the ends of the sleeves gathered on the cuffs, releasing flounces of fabric from under them. Sundresses are straight with ruffles in red satin or blue house fabric, sewn in front. Along the seam and straps, they were trimmed with alternating stripes of ribbons, wide braid, galloon and white cord. Very elegant wedding shirts.
Smolensk costume
Middle Volga, Ural, Siberia
Russian costumes of this region have been preserved mainly in the urban version. Trade routes, multiple movements of people contributed to the transfer of cultures, this is due to the absence of any specific type of clothing. In a men's suit, vests appear over the shirt. This is how we see the costume in the paintings of Kustodiev - his famous "Fairs". The women's costume was dominated by wide open sundresses with buttons and long straps. The shirt was replaced by sweatshirts. Yes, in Simbirsk costume you can often see a wide variety of material. The Simbirsk kokoshnik is large, it seems that kichka and “koruna” came together in it. The edges of such a dress go down almost to the shoulders. The hanging buttons of the round-shaped sundress on the leg are openwork and light. Cast from copper, silver with gilding, they spoke of the well-being and good luck of the hostess.
Coat
Outerwear was a naked fur coat - fur inside. Lighter was the "ponitok" - outerwear made of thick linen or woolen home cloth. Winter clothes were complemented by knitted colored mittens and stockings. Warm clothes were "soul warmer", trimmed with fur.
Warriors
With the development of mining, many people were resettled in the Urals. Ural the costume resembles a Cossack one. Swinging with a deaf neckline skew-wedge sundress with a train of greenish or turquoise half-damask. On the front seam on both sides it is trimmed with a braid and studded with a frequent row of silver buttons with filigree. The upper part of the shirt is made of satin, embroidered with gold embroidery and decorated on the upper part with a braid. The belt is embroidered with a braid with tassels.
Ural costume
Mountain Altai Semipalatinsk shirts from the collection of the Historical Museum, embroidered by the Old Believers - from canvas with a red pattern of solar diamond-shaped symbols. The ornament completely covers the entire surface of both women's and men's shirts. The slit on the female collar (in front) and on the male collar (on the right) is sheathed with a braid-amulet, like a hem and cuffs. The width of the shirt is greater than the height, which makes it voluminous and free. The apron is very interesting - the "sleeves" are one-piece, with diamond-shaped embroidery. The sleeves along the bottom edge of the armhole are not sewn in. How did such patterned clothing get to Altai, far from the Russian North? It is possible that the Old Believers, persecuted by the tsarist government, transferred agricultural symbols in the form of solar signs on their costume.
Semipalatinsk costume
Russian north
What is the peculiarity North Russian word of mouth ensemble? Where and how did this clothing - a sundress - come to Russia in places where the Mongol-Tatars did not set foot, there were no wars with their western neighbors?
The word "sarafan" (from Persian "dressed from head to toe") was first mentioned in the 16th century. It was originally men's clothing with sleeves - "c erapa", that is, honorable clothing.
North of Moscow in the XV-XVII centuries. there was already a sundress as a sleeveless outerwear for women. In addition to the sundress, the set of the sarafan ensemble includes a shirt, an apron, a kokoshnik, a belt, breast and temporal decorations and shoes.
Vologda, Tversundress wedding attire surprisingly good. A straight-cut Vologda sarafan with straps was sewn from canvas and chintz with weaving on the hem. Wedding sundresses on top of red calico were decorated with a patterned stripe in front. The Tver and Vologda wedding shirts on the shoulders are decorated with stripes of red weaving with agricultural solar symbols. The girl's amulet - the girl's headband "volushka" after the wedding was changed to a closed headdress - a warrior, under which a braid developed in two was removed. From above, they put on a kokoshnik with a closed top or a deaf, gathered in the upper part, "borushka".
O Tver a suit from Torzhok, the center of gold-embroidered art, was famous throughout Russia. Products of gold-embroidered craftswomen: belts, head scarves, silver and gilded braids, inserts for sleeves, and other products were sold at Russian fairs. The new merchants also decorated their outfits. Here is how I.I. describes such an outfit of a girl from Torzhok. Lazhechnikov in the novel "Ice House":
“Here is a stately beautiful girl from Torzhok, with a pearl crown ... a skillfully braided braid, the luxury of a Russian maiden, with a brilliant bow and a ribbon of golden beat, almost touches the ground. The girl deftly threw her brocade short fur coat over her shoulders ... Her rich feryas burns like a fever. She steps lightly in colored morocco boots embroidered with gold.
The traditional festive costume consisted of a sundress, a shirt with white muslin sleeves embroidered with gold, and an apron. Iridescent river pearls, gold and silver were used to decorate the “collection” headdress, over which a scarf with rich gold embroidery was put on.
Pskov, Galic, Novgorod, Arkhangelsk, Olonets costumes stand out from all northern costumes with rich fabrics and magnificent, fabulous kokoshniks.
Arkhangelsk costume
Numerous rivers, lakes, streams of the northern region were in those distant times full of small, plain-looking mollusks, in the shells of which they found white, pink, smoky pearls, shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. Pearls were called "Russian stone" and they embroidered headdresses, royal and church clothes, earrings, beads and necklaces were made from it.
Skirts
Northern beauties in dowry (holiday and wedding attire) had “koruna” or kokoshniks of various shapes, skillfully studded with pearls with forehead nets and trim, temporal and breast decorations. Northern sundresses were sewn from expensive taffeta, satin - precious fabrics that merchants brought from overseas countries as a gift to their daughters and wives, and even for sale. Such an expensive suit and a shirt to match. Its bottom (“stan”) was made of linen, and the sleeves were made of thin muslin with a gold pattern.
Dress-kosoklin
Only wealthy peasant women, rich Pomors and merchants' daughters and wives could have such an outfit. A simple peasant woman had a simpler outfit. However, the Russian northern linen shirt, wedding towels, fly (an indispensable part of the ceremony) are no less elegant.
Olnetsky costume
The Russian embroidery of the Tver land, the Olonets province, Karelia, Tver and Arkhangelsk items of women's needlework were famous.
Russian folk clothes are the keeper of the original folk culture, the heritage of our people, the chronicle of folk customs is one of the monuments of Russian national culture. For a long time people kept the covenants of antiquity in the artistic image of the people's dwelling, household items, folk costume. Should we forget this?
The revival of folk traditions is observed in the renewal of ancient calendar holidays, in elements of modern clothing, in the interest that people began to show in their national culture.
Presentation followed by consolidation of the material in the form of a crossword. Introduces students in grades 6-7 with elements of the national dress of the peoples of the Southern Urals. The material can be used in a lesson in geography and local history or during a class hour dedicated to the Day of National Unity, in order to cultivate a tolerant attitude towards people different nationalities, patriotic education to the history of the Southern Urals.
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ACQUAINTANCE WITH THE ELEMENTS OF THE NATIONAL COSTUME OF THE PEOPLES OF THE SOUTHERN URALS
PRESENTATION for the event "LAND - WHERE WE LIVE" MBSLSH named after Y.A. Gagarin Completed by: teacher Yagafarova Lilia Sergeevna
Goals and objectives Education of citizenship, patriotism, respect for the rights, freedoms and duties of a person. To expand knowledge about the life of people living in the Southern Urals, their customs, traditions, folklore. To acquaint with the national clothes of the peoples of the Southern Urals;
Representatives of more than 132 nationalities currently live on the territory of the Chelyabinsk region. The majority of the population is Russian - 82.31%, the rest - 17.69% form the following ethnic groups: Tatars - 5.69%, Bashkirs - 4.62%, Ukrainians - 2.14%, Kazakhs - 1.01%, Germans - 0.79%, Belarusians - 0.56%, Mordovians - 0.50 %, 2.88% - representatives of other nationalities.
Bashkir national costume Bashkirs sewed clothes from home cloth, felt, sheepskin, leather, fur; nettle and hemp canvas were also used, shoes were sewn from leather. The traditional long-skirted upper clothing of the Bashkirs was elyan - a suit with lined sleeves. There was a male (straight-backed) and female (fitted, flared). Male spruces were sewn from dark cotton fabrics, sometimes from velvet, silk, white satin; trimmed with stripes of red cloth (on the hem, floors, sleeves), decorated with appliqué, embroidery, braid. Women's spruces were sewn from colored velvet, black satin, silk. The hem, floors, sleeves were trimmed with stripes of multi-colored cloth (red, green, blue), alternating them with a braid. Elyans were decorated with appliqué, embroidery, corals, coins, and triangular stripes (jaurynsa) on the shoulders. As outerwear, the Bashkirs had a kazakin - a fitted suit lined with sleeves and a blind fastener, with buttons.
Bashkir national ornament
Tatar national costume. The basis of the women's costume is kulmek (shirt-dress) and bloomers. Men wore chekmen, a cloth outer garment of a robe-like cut, less often in the form of a caftan or semi-caftan. There was also a choba - light, unlined outerwear. It was sewn, as a rule, from home-made linen or hemp fabrics, just below the knee length. Chekmen - fitted, long-brimmed, peasant demi-season clothing. For girls, the decoration of the costume was a vest or apron.
Tatar headdresses (skullcap, fez, kalfak)
Tatar national shoes - ichig (chitek)
Tatar national ornament
Ukrainian national costume The basis for the women's costume, as in Russia, was a shirt (Ukrainian koshulya, shirt). It was longer than the men's and was sewn from two parts. The lower part, covering the body below the waist, was sewn from a coarser material and was called a frame. Women's shirts were with or without collars. In such a shirt, the collar is usually assembled in small assemblies and sheathed on top. A shirt without a collar was called Russian, a shirt with a collar was called Polish. In Ukraine, the custom is widespread to decorate the hem of the shirt with embroidery, since the hem of the shirt was always visible from under the outer clothing. Pants (Ukrainian harem pants, trousers) in Ukraine were sewn in much the same way as in Russia, or rather, the principle by which the pants were fixed on the body was the same. The upper edge of the pants was bent inward, a lace or belt was threaded into the resulting scar. The cord was tied in a knot. Ukrainians most often used a belt. After fastening the belt with a buckle, it was once again wrapped around the waist.
Ukrainian women's costume The most famous Ukrainian headdress is a girl's wreath. Wreaths were made from natural or artificial flowers, multi-colored ribbons were tied to the wreath. According to a well-known old custom, girls up to 15 years old or even up to marriage wore only a belted shirt. Ukrainian girls were no exception. Married women wore a plakhta - a skirt, Plakhta, covering the lower part of the woman's body mainly from behind. It is fixed on the belt with a belt specially designed for this purpose. It was sewn from homespun woolen fabric. The drawing is a large cell.
Ukrainian national ornament
Russian national costume Women's costume consisted of a shirt, sundress and kokoshnik. The sundress after the shirt was the main component of the women's costume. “Sarafan” is a term of Eastern origin, it originally meant “dressed from head to toe. Headdress - kokoshnik made of silk, cotton lining, cotton wool, braids, beads, exclusively pearls, turquoise embroidery, colored glass in nests.
Women's Russian costume. The girl's costume consisted of a skirt with a jacket. Sweatshirts were fitted, skirts made of chintz or wool, less often made of silk or satin. Cap made of satin or silk with lace, bright colors.
Male Russian costume. The main men's clothing was a shirt or undershirt. In the folk costume, the shirt was the outerwear, and in the costume of the nobility - the underwear. At home, the boyars wore a maid's shirt - it was always silk. The colors of the shirts are different: more often white, blue and red. They wore them loose and girdled with a narrow belt. A lining was sewn onto the back and chest of the shirt, which was called the background.
Outerwear for men Over the shirt, men put on zipun Zipun - outerwear for peasants. It is a collarless caftan made of coarse homemade cloth in bright colors with seams trimmed with contrasting cords. Over the zipun, rich people put on a caftan. Over the caftan, the boyars and nobles wore a feryaz - old Russian clothes (men's and women's) with long sleeves, without interception.
Outerwear for men In the summer, a single-row was worn over the caftan. One-row - Russian upper wide, long-sleeved to the ankle, women's and men's clothing, without a collar, with long sleeves, under which holes were made for the hands. The peasant outerwear was an Armenian. ARMYAK is the outer long-skirted peasant clothing in the form of a dressing gown made of cloth or coarse woolen fabric.
Russian national ornament
Kazakh women's costume Women wore a non-open shirt "koylek", longer than men's. Young women and girls preferred red or colorful fabrics. Over the dress, women wore camisoles without sleeves and with an open collar. Women's dressing gowns "shapan" - the most common clothes worn by many representatives of poor families, and they did not have other outerwear. "Saukele" - a wedding headdress in the form of a truncated cone. He was very tall - up to 70 cm. Unmarried girls wore "takiya" - a small hat made of fabric
Kazakh men's costume Men wore undershirts of two types, lower and upper pants, light outerwear and wider outerwear such as robes made of various materials. Leather belts and cloth sashes were an obligatory part of the costume. One of the main items of Kazakh clothing was a shapan - a spacious long robe Kalpak - a summer hat made of thin white felt with a narrow high crown, rounded or pointed crown, which was sewn from two identical halves, the lower parts were folded back, forming wide fields
Kazakh national ornament
German national costume Men's national costume consists of leather pants - lederhosen, three-quarter length, shirt, waistcoat, frock coat, hat with feathers or hairbrushes, leggings and boots with thick soles. In men, the length of the frock coat can indicate marital status. Traditionally, married men wear long frock coats, usually black. Bachelors have a short frock coat. Women's costume includes a fluffy skirt, a blouse, a vest like a corset with lacing or buttons and an apron. The length of the women's skirt is currently arbitrary, but earlier, according to tradition, it ended at the height of the mass (liter beer mug) from the ground (27 cm.)
german ornament
Men's Belarusian costume The men's costume usually consisted of a shirt embroidered along the collar and bottom, trousers, vest, leggings (belt clothing). Pants were called leggings (trousers) in Belarus. They were sewn from monophonic or multicolored linen, from linen or semi-clothed fabric, winter - from dark cloth (clothcloth). Legs were collared on the belt, which was fastened with a block or button, and collarless on a string. The trouser-legs fell down freely at the bottom or were wrapped around with onuchs and bast shoes. The shirt was worn over the legs and girded
Women's Belarusian costume The basis of the women's folk costume was a long white linen shirt, decorated with embroidery. Cloth skirt - andarap, which replaced the old poneva, apron, sometimes a sleeveless jacket and a belt. The mantle, collar, sleeves, sometimes the collar and hem of the shirt were embroidered with geometric patterns of stars, rhombuses, squares, triangles. The ensemble was completed with a headdress - a wreath, "skindachok" (towel), a bonnet or a scarf. The neck was decorated with beads and ribbons.
Belarusian ornament
The history of the Urals is rooted in hoary antiquity. Even historians of antiquity wrote about the Ural Mountains, along which the border of two worlds ran: the civilized European and the distant, mysterious Asian. Here, on the border of two continents, the destinies of different world civilizations crossed, which left an indelible mark on the history and culture of our region. If you value friendship, you can argue and be friends, and a quarrel will not come out of any dispute.
Literature used Gitis M.S. Chelyabinsk region. Entertaining geography in questions and answers https://ru.wikipedia.org/ http://www.kraeved74.ru/Local history portal of the Chelyabinsk region
CROSSWORD "Elements of national costumes of the peoples of the Southern Urals"
Questions for the crossword puzzle: Horizontally: 1. Women's Kazakh robes are the most common clothes worn by many representatives of poor families. 2. Cloth skirt of Belarusian women. 3. A fitted, lined suit with sleeves and a blind fastener, with buttons, which was used by the Bashkirs as outerwear. 4. Tatar headdress.
Vertically: 1. Russian upper, wide, long-sleeved to the ankle, women's and men's clothing, without a collar, with long sleeves, under which holes were made for the arms. The name of this garment is similar to the name of an accordion with one row of keys. 2. Old Russian long-sleeved men's clothing. There is a Russian proverb about this .... He also sees a curve, on whom ...... .. someone else's. 3. Outerwear for peasants, without a collar, made of coarse home-made cloth of bright colors with seams trimmed with contrasting cords. ………… And immediately he blew into a duel 4 . Upper long-skirted peasant clothing in the form of a robe 5. Tatar men's cloth outerwear of a robe-like cut, less often in the form of a caftan or semi-caftan. 6. So pants were called in Belarus. 7. This element, after the shirt, was the main component of the women's costume in Russia. This proverb is like a hint: Well done in a caftan, a girl in ………….
Crossword answers: Horizontally: 1.Shapan; 2.Andarap; 3. Kazakin; 4. Fezzes; Vertical: 1.Single row; 2.Caftan; 3.Zipun; 4. Armenian; 5. Chekmen; 6. Nagovitsy; 7.Sundress
Nomadic peoples who for several centuries passed through Ural, left a serious mark on our culture. This was reflected not only in rituals, recipes, but also in folk costume. A very special outfit was formed in Sukholozhskaya Sloboda- modern Dry Log.
For example, the festive costume of a prosperous peasant woman was distinguished by an abundance of various decorations, jewelry made from expensive fabrics, since the ideal of female beauty was compared with the image of mother earth, fertility, and the continuation of life. Men's costumes, on the contrary, were distinguished by stinginess and a lack of color in the fabric, which corresponded to the characteristics of the ideal image of a man endowed with physical and spiritual strength, courage and diligence.
Men's clothing consisted of a shirt, ports and belts, which were worn by many classes: merchants, philistines, factory and rural residents. Ancient festive men's shirts were decorated with embroidery. Geometric patterns were made with red threads on a white canvas.
It is worth noting that embroidery has always been extremely important in clothing. Craftswomen put a special meaning into the ornamental motifs. For example, geometric patterns symbolized fertility, floral patterns - the tree of life, birds - love, warmth, light.
At the beginning of the 20th century, when shirts were already mass-produced in factories, they were produced without embroidery, but at the same time in bright colors - red, crimson, burgundy. Despite the fact that today men and women have replaced traditional Russian costumes with dresses, jeans, skinny trousers and other fashionable clothes, interest in folk clothes is constantly growing.
AT Dry Log both adults and children are happy to dress up during folklore holidays and mass folk festivals in traditional costumes, sewn by local craftsmen according to old patterns. Moreover, in 2014 international tourism exhibition "Big Ural" Ambassador of Brazil to Russia Jose Antonio Wallim Guerreiro I was so imbued with Sukhoi Log costumes that I bought several things for my relatives.
Sverdlovsk regional social movement "Center of traditional folk culture of the city district" Sukhoi Log " aims to restore and preserve the best cultural, historical, folklore and ritual traditions of the population Middle Ural.
Sverdlovsk region, Sukhoi Log, st. Victory 13, [email protected]