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How to glue hdr in photoshop. How to Create an HDR Effect in Photoshop CS5 and Pseudo HDR Toning

A quick guide to creating high dynamic range photos. The article discusses the main points of HDR shooting - choosing a scene, setting up a camera for shooting with bracketing, a small overview of programs for merging HDR, provides alternative methods for expanding the dynamic range, working with filters, as well as shooting HDR panoramas and working in the style of multiple exposure. The material is designed for beginner amateur photographers who know how to use a digital camera and have the skills to process images on a computer.

What is HDR?

Every amateur photographer who is fond of landscape photography faces the same problem - pictures of a picturesque place or city landmark are often far from reality and turn out to be either overexposed or, conversely, too dark.

In the first case, the sky with clouds in the picture is strongly overexposed or absent altogether, in the second case, the sky is worked out well, but all other details of the landscape are so dark that they are almost invisible. Trying to change the exposure settings does not change the situation in any way. The fact is that, unlike photographic equipment, the human eye is able to perceive a wider range of brightness gradations.

The answer must be sought in the limited dynamic range of today's digital cameras. The camera exposure meter measures the exposure either by light areas (sky) or, conversely, by dark areas (buildings, trees, ground). Therefore, the only way out of this situation is to shoot in exposure bracketing mode and then combine the images in a graphics editor.

Technology HDR(High Dynamic Range) combines the highlights, midtones, and darks of a series of images into a single high dynamic range image. Most often, the photographer does this with the help of a special computer program; Some cameras have this functionality built in, allowing you to take HDR pictures without using a computer.

In order for the program to correctly combine the images, it is very important that they be as identical as possible and differ only in exposure parameters. When shooting handheld, even on a bright sunny day with a fast shutter speed, it is not always possible to keep the camera still, which leads to a slight shift, as a result of which the resulting HDR image will be blurry. Shooting from a tripod will help - the photographer will receive a series of shots, which, in theory, should match perfectly. However, in practice, the same pictures will be obtained only in a deserted place with complete calm - the wind shakes the branches of trees, passers-by, passing cars, as well as birds and other objects fall into the frame. In this case, software algorithms come into play that help fight blurring, in the language of developers, this technology is called Ghost Reduction, or “fighting ghosts”.

If you don’t have a tripod with you, or the shooting conditions do not allow you to mess around with it (during an excursion, or if shooting from a tripod is prohibited), it’s quite possible to shoot in handheld bracketing mode if you find a good support and hold the camera firmly.

Another option for creating HDR is processing one image taken in RAW format in 2 stages: first, a virtual copy of the file is made, then they work with lights in one image, with shadows in the other, after which the two files are glued into the final image. And finally, another technique is to create a "pseudo-HDR" from a single file using processing in a specialized program, such as Topaz Adjust.

In any case, well-glued HDR shots look very impressive and undoubtedly attract the attention of viewers.

Take a regular photo, or shoot HDR?

Determining whether a scene is suitable for HDR is very simple - just take a control shot of the landscape you like in creative mode, for example A, and immediately evaluate the result on the screen. Is the sky overexposed and shadows littered in the picture, while in fact everything around looks stunningly beautiful? You can safely shoot HDR, this story is just our case.

Oddly enough, stormy waves with a stormy sky come out very beautifully - despite the fact that the three exposures will be radically different from each other, when stitching together in Lightroom 6, you can get an unexpectedly dramatic and interesting shot.

It is quite difficult to shoot HDR at sunset, especially if there are beautifully illuminated clouds in the sky, often the sky is even traced by the rays of the sun through the clouds - in this case, the dynamic range of the scene is not so wide, the HDR technique is useless here, a single RAW frame is enough. It is better to focus on shooting and seize the moment before the sun hid behind the horizon!

However, even at sunset, if you have a tripod with you, it always makes sense to take a couple of series, because you can get very interesting pictures by deliberately darkening the sky and highlighting objects in the foreground. In addition, a tripod will allow you to think over the angle more carefully, as well as close the aperture to f / 11-16 and more interesting to work with depth of field.

Scenes that are not suitable for shooting in HDR style:

Portrait. There are exceptions, but in most cases, the portrait should be shot in portrait technique.
Night or evening city.
Fog. In theory, you can try to shoot fog in the HDR style, but only with a narrow fork and as an addition to regular shots.
long exposure with tracers or mirror water.
Studio photography and all kinds of items.
Reportage, street, although the street is a very broad and experimental direction, there may be options here.
Dynamics, sports, children games, animals, macro.
Cloudy gloomy rainy weather with a “milky” sky, in this case it is better to look for interesting angles, most often the HDR technique will not make the landscape more interesting.
Winter landscape. The plot is controversial, the author did not get a single interesting winter HDR, but it would be wrong to give up and stop trying so easily.

Expanding the dynamic range, no doubt, requires creativity, experience and a desire to experiment.

Setting up your camera for HDR shooting

Almost all digital cameras allow you to shoot with exposure bracketing, this feature is available not only in SLR or mirrorless cameras, but also in many compacts, it has even appeared in smartphones. We will consider the setup using the example of Canon and Nikon DSLRs. Bracket shooting setup is quite different depending on the camera manufacturer and its model.

In any case, the camera must be configured as follows:

Set to RAW format and aperture priority mode A, or fully manual mode M.
Adjust the exposure as if we were shooting a single frame. For example, for a landscape during the day, it will be an ISO sensitivity of 100 and an aperture of F / 11, the shutter speed in A mode will be set by the camera itself.
In the camera menu, select the order of shooting exposures (minus) - (zero) - (plus), so it's easier to sort the series on the computer later.
Set up bracketing - choose the number of exposures and bracket. For beginners, it makes sense to start with 3 exposures with a ±2 or ±3EV bracketing.
Set a timer, it is better to set 2 seconds - this time is enough; if the camera does not have a choice of several intervals, set which one is. If you have a cable release with you, it's time to use it.
Build a frame, autofocus (or focus manually), after which it is better to turn off autofocus.
Press the shutter button, let's go!

Canon cameras

Canon SLR cameras allow you to shoot at the same time and quickly, and with bracketing, and with a timer.

There is no separate bracketing button, you need to enter the menu and select the exposure. Next, use the wheel to adjust the bracketing fork and press SET. Attention! Bracketing is turned on in this way, that is, there is no item in the menu like ON / OFF. The camera can remember this setting and will take bracketed shots until the photographer sets the bracketing to zero.

The timer starts as usual: pressing the DRIVE button and turning the wheel allows you to select the clock with the number 2 or 10. You can use the cable to release the shutter. The three images above illustrate the Canon 5D Mark III camera setup.

Nikon cameras

Nikon DSLRs have a BKT button, you need to hold it down, then use the control wheels to set the number of exposures and the fork (Step). To turn off bracketing, you need to set the number of shots to zero.

If you use the self-timer, then between exposures the camera will count a certain delta in time, as a result, dynamic objects can move from exposure to exposure. To turn on the self-timer, you need to turn the left control wheel to the clock icon (see photo below).

To shoot the whole series like a machine gun, without a delta in time, you need to turn on high-speed shooting (Ch on the lower control wheel for selecting the drive mode, see photo below). Then keep the shutter button pressed - the series is ready, but you can easily move the camera, even mounted on a tripod. The self-timer cannot be used in this case, since high-speed shooting is turned on by the same wheel as the self-timer.

Thus, shooting with bracketing at the same time and quickly, and with a timer on Nikon SLR cameras will not work. It will most likely be fixed in future models. The examples above show the Nikon D610 setup.

Shooting on a tripod or handheld?

This example shows an HDR urban landscape shot. The shooting was carried out in exposure bracketing mode in steps of ±2 EV in aperture priority mode (A). To achieve a good depth of field in the foreground and background, an aperture of F/10 was chosen. A tripod was used to perfectly align the shots, as the negative exposure was too slow for handheld shooting.

-2EV	0EV	+2EV

The arch in the courtyard of a house on Nevsky Prospekt in St. Petersburg was not chosen by chance - using the example of shooting this story, you can clearly demonstrate the capabilities of HDR technology. Since the shooting was done in the daytime, the street was very well lit, while the area inside the arch was in shadow.

If you shoot, measuring the exposure on the house in the background, only the areas in the daylight area will be worked out in the picture, the camera is clearly not enough to work out the highlights and mid-tones inside the arch of the dynamic range.

Bracketing was used to expand the dynamic range. There is heavy traffic on Nevsky Prospekt, a car passing by was caught in one of the frames, and besides, pedestrians did not stand still and moved. Therefore, in order to achieve perfect merging of three shots, it is better to choose the morning hours for shooting, when the traffic on the avenue is not so active, or rely on automatics when merging HDR, as was done in this example.

Many tripods, such as those from Manfrotto, are equipped with one or more level indicators, one on the tripod body and one on the tripod head, which will allow you to set the horizon very level.

Of course, HDR technology means shooting from a tripod, but if you can’t use a tripod, it’s acceptable to shoot handheld, especially during the day. An image stabilizer will be useful here, as well as a good support, such as a column, railing, own knee or other tricks. However, you need to carefully monitor the ISO sensitivity and do not set high values, since nothing good will come of merging three "noisy" frames.

How many exposures to shoot?

Beginners can be safely advised at first to choose the classic HDR option with three exposures and a ±2 EV or ±3 EV bracket, depending on the scene or lighting situation.

Professional interior photographers talk about 9 exposures, which allows them to work out maximum details in highlights, shadows, and midtones. Professional cameras easily allow you to shoot 9 exposures, in addition, the photographer can shoot a series of shots in M mode, simply by changing the shutter speed to get the number of exposures he needs. This technique is suitable for leisurely shooting indoors, when no one interferes and there is enough time. In addition, for responsible shooting, the photographer takes a computer with him, on which you can immediately check the result of gluing and make adjustments if necessary.

A classic example, with three exposures, and therefore a classic one, which is suitable for most shooting situations:

-2EV	0EV	+2EV

Five exposures will create an even wider dynamic range, which will allow you to process the photo more interestingly when gluing, working very finely with the details in the highlights and shadows. In theory, you can always make 5 exposures, however, firstly, three exposures are often enough, and, secondly, it is faster and more convenient to work with three.

-1,4	-0,7	0	+0,7	+1,4

The scene above was filmed in Pavlovsk on a Sony a7 camera, which can automatically shoot in a series of 5 exposures. Gluing in the program HDR Efex Pro.

Also 5 exposures can be useful if there is a lot of detail in the deep shadows, midtones and highlights, like the stone bridge in the forest example. Here you can’t see the sky with clouds at all, but the summer day was very bright, and the shadows in the forest were deep, and gluing HDR from five frames made it possible to work out all the midtones and get an image very similar to how we would see this scene with our own eyes.

This scene was shot in Sergievka Park (Peterhof, a suburb of St. Petersburg) on a Canon 5D Mark II camera, which cannot automatically shoot 5 exposures in a series, so different exposures were obtained in M mode by changing the shutter speed. In this case, the focal length is 17mm, ISO 100, F/10 and the shutter speed from left to right is 1/25, 1/13, 1/6, 0.3 and 0.5 seconds. Fusion in Lightroom 6.

Now pay attention to the winter photo of the same bridge. The shooting was carried out in the same place with the same equipment, but the winter mood could not be conveyed, the picture was not interesting. Obviously, the HDR technique is completely useless here, you could just take one frame in RAW format.

-2EV	0EV	+2EV

How to choose an exposure fork?

First of all, it makes sense to evaluate the contrast of the scene, perhaps take a couple of test shots to visually assess the dips in the highlights and shadows. In practice, one often has to choose between ±2 and ±3 EV. The abbreviation EV, by the way, stands for Exposure Values, in the jargon of "foot".

If we set up a tripod and set up the camera, it's best to take two series - both with a ±2 and ±3 EV bracket, and already at home, when processing pictures, choose the best option, because it's always good when there is a choice. It may well turn out that some story will stick together better from photographs taken with a wider fork, some from a series with a narrower one.

The pros at HDRsoft recommend always using the lowest ISO setting and a ±2 EV bracket. From the experience of shooting HDR, we can say that the first statement is beyond doubt, while in the case of a fork, various options are possible and there is a huge scope for creativity.

Plug ±3 EV

-3EV	0EV	+3EV

The maximum fork of ±3 EV should be chosen for high-contrast scenes in order to work out fine details in shadows and highlights well. In this example, such a wide fork is completely unnecessary, ± 2 EV could have been completely dispensed with. These settings are deliberately chosen to demonstrate the elaboration of halftones.

Fork ±2 EV

-2EV	0EV	+2EV

The ±2 EV plug can be safely chosen for shooting any landscape at any time of the year. In many cameras, you can set not only integer values, but also intermediate values between 2 and 3, thus choosing the ideal settings for each particular scene, based on personal experience and intuition.

Plug ±1 EV

-1EV	0EV	+1EV

A fork of ±1 EV in the case of HDR practically does not make sense - the same effect can be easily achieved in a graphics editor when processing RAW, since within ±1 EV you can easily process any photo with almost no loss. This option is useful if you are not sure about the exact choice of exposure pair, but you want to work out the details.

Programs for merging HDR pictures

Adobe Lightroom 6

The HDR fusion tool appeared only in the 6th version of this wonderful RAW converter, users have been waiting for it for a long time and patiently. In fact, with Lightroom's ability to blend panoramas and HDR, the need for Photoshop for photo editing has been virtually eliminated.

The dialog box is simple and clear, nothing superfluous, no settings. As a result, the program will create a glued file in DNG format (this is a raw data format developed by Adobe). The file will be in the thumbnails ribbon next to the original exposures.

When should I process a photo - before gluing, or after? Adobe engineers advise processing after gluing, since all information from all exposures will be contained in the merged DNG, and we will have the widest possibilities for tonal processing of any part of the photo - both in shadows and in highlights or midtones. The profile for correcting optical distortions can also be connected after gluing, the same applies to editing the horizon and crop. Of course, any processing will be non-destructive, you can return to the glued original at any time.

Advantages

Probably the best HDR fusion tool to date.
Simple and intuitive interface, nothing more.
In the dialog box, you can see in the form of a mask the objects that will be processed by the anti-samaz tool.
It will be simple and understandable for beginners.

disadvantages

It is quite difficult to somehow influence the operation of the anti-blur algorithm.
In some places of the photo, artifacts appear in the form of stripes or noise, most likely due to the operation of this very anti-blur algorithm.

Adobe Photoshop CC

MacOS, Windows, subscription 300 rubles per month

The Merge to HDR tool of Photoshop CC, which is shown on the screen below, appeared a long time ago, in previous versions of the program, and served faithfully for a long time, it still works today, but with the release of Lightroom version 6, its functionality loses a lot.

The peculiarity of the tool is that all processing has to be done in two places - first in the fusion dialog box, and then modify the photo until it is converted from 16 to 8 bits per channel.

Advantages

Possibility to choose the exposure, on the basis of which the program will deal with blurring, the changes are displayed on the picture in real time.
An excellent HDR fusion algorithm that allows you to get a professional result.

disadvantages

There are few tonal processing tools in the program's dialog box.
The need for additional processing before converting from 16 to 8 bits per channel, for example using curves.
Photoshop curves skills required.

HDR Effect Pro 2

MacOS and Windows, the price is 5490 rubles for a set of programs.

HDR Efex Pro is a plugin, it is one of several plugins in a bundle called NIK Collection. It is developed by NIK Software, a company recently acquired by Google.

Advantages

Large collection of ready-made presets. Import presets, create custom ones.
A large number of HDR fusion tonal settings.
Nice simple interface.
Plugin for many programs: Photoshop/Bridge, Lightroom, Apple Aperture.
Working with "smart filters" - it is possible to use Photoshop's Smart Filters.
local adjustments.
Perfect for beginners for the first steps in HDR fusion.

disadvantages

Uncertain work with a monochromatic section of the sky, on which there are no clouds - this section will almost certainly turn out as a dark spot.
Ready-made presets often make the picture too rough, too pronounced HDR effect.
Not always successful work of the algorithm for combating blurring of objects during gluing.

Oloneo PhotoEngine

Windows only, price $150.

Advantages

Fast work, all adjustments are made almost in real time, no brakes.
Extended work with color.
The program works both as a plugin for Lightroom and as a standalone application.
Along with the traditional HDR fusion, the program has a unique HDR Re-light technology that allows you to combine several photos taken not with different exposures, but with different backlighting.

disadvantages

The depressing work of the algorithm for combating blurring of objects during gluing, in fact, it simply does not exist in the program.
The application is released only for Windows.
The program is quite difficult for beginner amateur photographers.

Photomatix Pro 5.05

MacOS and Windows, the price is about $100

This program can be safely called a pioneer in working with HDR, because HDRSoft sari released the first commercial application back in 2003. By the way, the interface of the program has not changed much since then, it is made in the style of early versions of Windows and causes a smile and nostalgia, but at the same time it is very convenient and simple. Another thing is the principle of work in the program. Probably, Photomatix Pro is one of the deepest programs in terms of fine user settings, and despite the simplicity of the interface, it is not easy to understand it. Beginners should definitely watch a few training videos that are presented on the company's website or on YouTube.

Advantages

A huge number of gluing settings, including various algorithms and methods.
The settings work fine, you can very, very accurately work out the desired parameter, such as micro-contrast, details in the shadows, and so on.
Two work algorithms (Exposure Fusion or HDR Tone Mapping) to choose from.
The program works as a standalone application or can be used as a plug-in for Lightroom/ Photoshop Elements.
The presence of interesting ready-made presets.
Possibility of batch processing of several series.

disadvantages

The algorithm for combating blurring of objects during gluing does not always work successfully.
The program is very difficult for beginner amateur photographers.

HDR Exposure 3

MacOS and Windows, the price is about $120.

Developed by Unified Color, it is available both as a standalone application and as a plug-in for Lightroom, Photoshop and Apple Aperture.

Advantages

Ability to batch process files.
Possibility of batch merging of HDR panoramas.
Nimble work.
It is possible to select a frame on the basis of which the program will deal with blurring.
An excellent anti-blur algorithm, it worked perfectly on all test frames.
A large number of adjustments to the gluing settings, the engines work accurately, allowing you to fine-tune the desired parameters.
Version available for both Windows and MacOS.
The presence of both an advanced version (HDR Expose) and a version with reduced functionality (HDR Express), the difference is $40.
The program can be recommended to beginners, it is not difficult to understand it.

disadvantages

The interface is not always convenient, at least in the version for MacOS - some labels overlap each other.
A small number of ready-made processing presets.

Luminance HDR

Linux, MacOS, Windows, free.

This program is worth mentioning for the reason that it is probably one of the few developed for all three platforms and is the most popular HDR fusion program in the Linux operating system. The question of choosing an operating system is beyond the scope of this study, however, using the Luminance HDR program as an example, one can clearly demonstrate why photographers, and indeed creative people in general, prefer MacOS or Windows.

The interface, functionality and, in general, the principles of work in the Luminance HDR program are very different from those of competitors; The program has anti-lubrication algorithms, which, however, did not work out in practice - the program crashed.

Advantages

The most popular HDR fusion software for Linux operating system.
A large number of tone correction settings.
Several different gluing algorithms.

disadvantages

Very slow work (the test is carried out on a mid-range office laptop, Ubuntu 15.04 system). Simply put, the program slows down.
The result of changing the parameters is not displayed on the photo in real time, you need to press the Tonemap button and wait.
Step by step algorithm. In other words, it will not be possible to control the anti-blur method in the HDR fusion dialog box, this function can only be enabled before fusion, at the previous step, at the stage of selecting photos.
Complex principles of operation, which even experienced users cannot understand without a description or instructions.
Inconvenient confusing interface.
This program can be recommended for beginners if there is a task to work exclusively under Linux, and also as a good puzzle.
When trying to turn on the alignment of objects and the anti-blur function, the program thought for about 15 minutes and then crashed.

When working with the Luminance HDR program, there was a constant desire to end the torment and launch Lightroom 6, in which the same operations can be done an order of magnitude faster, several times more convenient and with more predictable results.

DSLR Remote Pro

Speaking of HDR stitching programs, one cannot but mention the DSLR Remote Pro program, which allows you to control the camera from a computer. With other undoubted advantages, the program allows you to automatically shoot with bracketing up to 15 frames in a series. Moreover, it is compatible with the aforementioned Photomatix Pro program, in conjunction with which it can automatically create HDR images. Of course, Photomatix Pro must be purchased independently of the DSLR Remote Pro and installed on your computer.

For the purpose of this study, it makes no sense to consider the DSLR Remote Pro in depth; a few years ago I wrote a long review of this program, it is a very interesting and unique product of its kind. I recommend to all those who are interested to visit the Breeze Systems website, find out the compatibility of the program with your camera and try the demo version in action.

Processing a single photo, or creating a "pseudo-HDR"

Almost without exception, programs for creating HDR images, along with their direct function, also offer the function of creating the so-called "pseudo-HDR" image. The essence of this method is that the program allows a user who does not have a series of HDR images to create a photo effect with a wide dynamic range from a single photo.

The most common example is shooting in gray cloudy weather, shooting from under an arch, and so on. The sky in this case will almost certainly be the color of milk, and the foreground is dark. Of course, competent shooting with a tripod of a series of shots with subsequent gluing would have saved the situation, but often we simply do not have enough time, patience and perseverance to do such things. A group of tourists is leaving, friends are calling to keep up, the barbecue is getting cold, and walking companions are most often very annoyed by a satellite who is constantly fiddling with his tripod, isn't it? Surely many have felt this on themselves, and more than once ...

Here it is appropriate to note once again that shooting in RAW format is needed specifically for the subsequent processing of images. The size and resolution of the camera matrix also matters, full-frame modern matrices give out a very wide dynamic range, often allowing you to “pull” lights and shadows over a very wide range.

HDR Effect Pro 2

The price is 5490 rubles for a set of programs.

The main purpose of the plugin, of course, is HDR fusion from several exposures, but you can also process a single photo.

The screenshot above shows an example of displaying two states of a photo on the screen at the same time - it was / became, which in the case of merging traditional HDR does not make sense, since the “was” state does not exist. You can choose one of the ready-made presets and modify it.

Topaz Adjust 5

MacOS and Windows, price $50.

Perhaps the most spectacular plug-in of a well-known software company. It is released for Windows and MacOS and can be purchased both separately and as part of a whole package of plug-ins.

The main advantage of the plugin is a huge number of ready-made presets, sorted by processing theme, one might say, for all occasions. Having chosen a preset, you can immediately refine its action with sliders-regulators. You should not expect special miracles from the plugin, but the processing capabilities are amazing. The disadvantage is the fact that the HDR effect in most of the ready-made presets is too strong, exaggerated, the processing immediately catches the eye.

HDR panorama

We often shoot both wide panoramas and breathtaking HDR, but what happens when these two techniques are combined? That's right, you get a beautiful panoramic photo with a wide dynamic range, that is, well-developed details in shadows, midtones and highlights. Shooting such scenes is difficult, as you need to use your experience shooting in two different techniques at the same time.

Here the classic approach will come to the rescue - to shoot a panorama of three series, three exposures of each frame with a bracket of ±2 or ±3 EV, according to the lighting situation of the plot. You can take more series, but then it is very difficult to work with such a huge number of shots, in addition, the hard drive space is instantly eaten up, the computer slows down, nerves are at the limit, and the result is unpredictable.

The second difficult point is the presence of dynamic objects in the frame. And if you shoot a panorama of 5 HDR frames, each of which is glued together from three, then you end up with 15 frames, in each of which tree branches move, cars drive, people walk. And a situation can easily arise in which the same object can appear in all five frames in different places. In this case, you can either rely on the fusion program, or carefully work with a stamp in each picture. In the example below, you can see that the person was moving and changing position, but Lightroom 6 did the job.

The example shows a panorama stitched together from 5 HDR photos, which in turn are stitched together from 3 exposures each. Lightroom 6.

Automatic HDR shooting methods

Many modern cameras allow you to shoot and glue HDR automatically. The camera in this mode, as a rule, will take a series of frames, after which it will glue the final HDR itself. In the vast majority of cases, you need to shoot in JPEG format, and at the output we will also get a ready-made JPEG, which will no longer be “re-pasted”.

Some cameras allow, along with the glued JPEG, to record on the memory card also the original exposures, which you can try to glue at home in your own way on the computer. Whether this or that camera supports this function, you need to look in the instructions or carefully read the reviews, as a rule, such subtleties are not reflected in the specifications.

For example, the Pentax k3 camera does differently - it glues three exposures into one RAW (DNG) file, the volume of which is close to 100 megabytes. Raw format and a large amount of data will allow you to edit the image in a very wide range if you wish. Moreover, the proprietary Digital Camera Utility is able to extract individual exposures from this file, after which the photographer will be able to “re-paste” them again using other algorithms than the camera used. Of course, it is impossible to check this functionality in practice without having the camera itself in your hands, it remains to take a word.

Active D-Lightning

This is a feature of all modern Nikon DSLRs. There is no particular drama in the photo, and when processing RAW in a graphics editor, you can easily achieve more interesting results. The six images below were taken with the Nikon D610.

ADL AUTO	ADL moderate	ADL normal


ADL reinforced	ADL Super Reinforced	ADL Off

And another strange moment: this function does not affect the raw file, only JPEG. Or rather, not quite so: when you open NEF in Nikon's program, Capture NX-D, information about Active D-Lightning will be read, and the file will be displayed according to the settings for this parameter. If you work with this NEF in any other editor, there is no point in using this function, it is better to turn it off so as not to waste energy.

HDR

Many cameras have an automatic HDR stitching mode, it is included in the menu and works only when shooting in JPEG - the camera itself will take a series of several frames and glue the finished file. In Nikon cameras, in order for the camera to remember the fact that this mode is turned on, you need to set the “series”, otherwise this function will have to be re-activated in the menu before each next shot in the HDR style.

Extra High	high	Normal	low	OFF

You can adjust the fork (in the menu it is called “Exposure Diff”) and the hardness of the processing (for some reason it is called “Softening”). As practice shows, special miracles from shooting in this mode should not be expected.

special effects

A special scene mode or special effect will allow you to take pictures in the HDR style, but they can hardly be interesting except for fun. Such a special effect can be called something like “HDR painting”.

Nikon D5300	Sony a5000

Shooting in automatic mode will help a novice photographer when choosing a shooting angle, and will also allow you to quickly decide whether it is worth shooting the selected scene with exposure bracketing at all. Seeing an interesting angle, you can quickly shoot an example, look at the screen, and if the result turns out to be interesting, set up a tripod and make a series slowly and thoughtfully.

Multiple exposure

This technique has its roots in film times, most likely, someone once forgot to translate the frame and got an interesting artistic result when one image was superimposed on another.

When shooting on film, the photographer could take the first frame in one place, then not transfer the film and take the second frame at the same place on the film, being in another city even after a week or a month, and so the number of times he needed. Of course, the result can only be seen when developing this film.

Most modern Nikon DSLRs, such as the D7200, Df or D610, can shoot multiple exposure style shots. An overlay of 2 or 3 frames is available (in Nikon DF - up to 10 frames), while you can shoot in RAW. By default, the maximum time between exposures is 30 seconds, this time can be extended using the user setting. As with HDR, the menu can be set to On. (series) or On (single shot) - in the first case, the camera will take one multiple exposure, and you can start shooting the next, while in the second case, after shooting one multiple exposure, the camera will automatically switch this setting to Off.

There is also such a parameter as "Auto Gain". This setting should be adjusted to your taste, the manual does not give any specific recommendations in this regard, except that it suggests turning off auto-gain if the background is dark.

Shooting in multiple exposure style is not an easy creative task. If in the case of HDR you can at least roughly imagine what the future frame will look like (for example, mentally darken the sky and brighten the shadows on the ground), when shooting Time Lapse, you can mentally speed up the movement of clouds in the sky or the course of any events, then in the case of multiple exposure to imagine the future frame is incredibly difficult.

Anyone interested in multiple exposure can be recommended to study the works

This guide was originally written by me for Photoshop CS3, but over the course of a couple of years, the developers have released some big updates to Photoshop, and they have innovations related to HDR, and now Photoshop CC is available to us.

I studied the differences in the versions - old and new, and decided that it was time to update the manual. This tutorial will work for all versions, including CS6 and CC:

What is HDR and where can this technology be applied?

In this tutorial, we will look at the theory and practice of HDR - photo. HDRI ( High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D, but is now being fully applied in photography. The essence of the technology is to obtain several images with different exposures and combine them into one 32-bit image.

The camera allows you to reflect a limited number of tones in one photo ( we call this dynamic range, the range of tones that can be captured between pure black and pure white). That is, we cut off some of the elements of the photo when we set the exposure on the camera.

We measure it to display the most important elements of the scene. For example, let's take a look at a series of shots I took on the Bradbury Bridge ( Bradburry) under construction in Los Angeles. The central image, shot at a normal exposure, shows the camera's capabilities well in terms of the amount of detail that is rendered.

Note that outdoor detail is lost because there is so much light. And the details on the railing of the stairs are also lost, because it is very dark there. When you look at reality with your own eyes, you see much more detail than in a photo, precisely because the human eye transmits a greater range of tones than the camera can reproduce in one picture:

The solution to the problem is to take more than one shot by bracketing. Take a photo with a normal exposure ( central photo), then with a lower exposure (photo on the left) to capture details outside the window and with a higher exposure; the photo on the right is for detailing the shadow. And finally, we combine these shots into one to get an image with a large range of tones.

In this guide, I will show you how to do all of the above in the least amount of time.

Photo Tips

First we need to capture the sources on camera. Technically, this translates into the need to take at least two shots with different exposure settings to create HDR. Personally, I achieve good results with three shots. I like to do bracketing in 2 stops.

Yes, I know this is more of a bracketing than most people are used to working with. But for the types of HDR images I love to create ( mostly urban landscapes), this value is the most suitable. If you are photographing people, it may be worth reducing the difference in exposure between shots to one stop.

And sometimes you need to take more than 3 shots with different exposures. It really depends on the contrast of the scene. In the Bradbury construction example, I took a series of shots of Los Angeles from inside a dark building on a sunny day through window panes. It took me as many as seven photos, 2 stops apart, to capture the full dynamic range of the scene.

In some cases, such as foggy weather, it is possible to capture all the tones in a scene in one shot. But again, mainly for HDR photography, 3 shots are necessary and sufficient. I put the camera settings in auto bracketing mode and take pictures with an exposure interval of 2 stops, one at “+” and one at “-”.

Note that only the shutter speed changes. If you change the aperture value, the depth of field will also change, resulting in an unnecessarily "blurred" final image. Use a tripod if possible, otherwise lean against a wall or something stable to prevent movement between shots.

Note: For true HDR, it's not a good idea to use one raw image and expose it with different settings. That is unnecessary. The same result can be achieved by extruding shadows and highlights using Camera Raw or Lightroom.

This method is called single shot HDR ( Single Image HDR). This is the so-called pseudo HDR. You will not be able to do HDR - an image from a single SDR snapshot ( standard dynamic range). What is it like " stereo sound from one speaker". There simply is not enough digital information. This is pseudo HDR and should not be confused with true HDR.

HDR guide in Photoshop

Step 1

Let's start with three images. One is normal exposure, one is underexposed, and one is overexposed. In this particular case, I used 2-stop bracketing. Since I shoot a lot of cityscapes, I get by with two feet, because the subjects are mostly flat surfaces, and stripes and pasteurization are not a problem.

If you are shooting round or curved surfaces, you may want to lower the bracketing interval to get smoother transitions. Keep in mind that you will most likely get a lot of tonal matches, as a good DSLR camera can capture about 11 stops.

I set the bracketing interval on my camera to 2 stops. Then I set the shooting mode to "queue". When I hold down the shutter button, 3 photos will be taken at once. I shoot in RAW for as wide a dynamic range as possible. You can create HDR even if your camera doesn't support RAW, but keep in mind that JPG is an 8-bit file.

Make sure you shoot in aperture priority or manual mode. You need to bracket the shutter speed, not the aperture. If you change the aperture, then the depth of field will not be constant, and you will get additional blur. Also, avoid the movement of objects in the photo, or get "ghosts" - parts of objects that appeared in only one photo, which will lead to the appearance of unnecessary details in the final photo. If you look at the three images I used, you can see a lot of detail in the middle one.

However, shadow detail is lost on boats and city lights are too bright, which also leads to loss of information. The left image is underexposed to capture detail in the bright part of the scene ( buildings in the background).

The photo on the right is overexposed 2 stops to get shadow details like boat hulls and water reflections:

Step 2

So, it's time to combine these photos into one 32 bit image.

Go to menu File - Automation - Merge to HDR Pro (File>Automate>Merge to HDR Pro). This menu is available in versions of Photoshop CS2 - CS6 ( in CS2 there is no auto-alignment, but instead the "Merge to HDR" command in versions older than CS5).

Select all images or an entire folder. I put each set of photos in a separate folder, so I use the "Folders" value. Choose a photo to merge. Enable auto leveling ( Auto Align) in Photoshop CS3+ versions. Click OK. ( Photoshop uses auto leveling technology that allows you to create HDR images without a tripod.):

Step 3

Your images are now merged into one. You can exclude some photos by deselecting the green checkbox next to the frame. If unnecessary details appear there due to the fact that the camera moved during the shooting process, check the box “ Remove ghosting" ( Remove ghosts).

When you are working in 16 or 8 bit mode, the settings will look like this, and if in 32 bit, then like in step 4:

Step 4

The result of the merging is a 32-bit image. Change the mode to 32 bits. You can see the available tones by dragging the " Viewing white point settings» ( white point). Note that the slider does not change the image itself, it is only meant to show the full range of tones, because the monitor is not able to convey all the details of a 32-bit image at once:

Note: Photoshop CC has a new option "" (""). CS6 didn't have this option. If you are using Photoshop CS6 or lower, skip to step 5.

If you have a CC version and there is a checkbox next to " Full Rendering in Adobe Camera Raw”, then dragging the slider will not work. Turn this setting off and you will be able to drag the slider bar. However, when this option is enabled, you will be able to use Camera Raw for toning instead of the HDR Pro settings. In this case, go to step 8b:

But I recommend that you explore both methods as they each have their own benefits. Toning in HDR Pro (Step 5+) gives you more control and allows you to create a surreal effect. ACR( Camera Raw) will help you achieve a realistic HDR effect without much effort.

Step 5

Shading can be done right away, but I prefer to save the 32-bit negative first. Click "OK" to merge the 32 bit image. Now you can save the file. Save as psd , tif or EXR .

If you are working in 3D and want to add IBL lighting to HDRI, then save the file as EXR ( for Maya and other 3D software that supports this format).

Step 6

Depending on how you want to use this image, you need to convert it to 16 or 8 bit. When converting, the so-called interpretation of the photo takes place. The reason for this lies in the fact that there are many ways to process a photo.

Whereas in a 32-bit image we have a huge dynamic range, but after conversion it will not be available. Based on personal experience, I advise you to always work with the 32 bit version and then convert it. Avoid resaving a 32 bit image. This is your original image and we may have to go back to it many times.

On the menu " Image > Mode» ( Image>Mode>) select 16 bit (or 8 bit ). Now let's experiment with the settings. Let's start with the Tone and Detail part. This is where almost all the creativity of the HDR creation process lies. ( If you want to make settings without conversion, then select the menu item “View - 32 Bit Preview Options” (view> 32 Bit Preview Options). You can use several Photoshop tools in the menu Image> Correction (Image> Adjustments menu). The most significant setting here is “ Exposure" ( exposure control).

The HDR Toning dialog box opens ( Toning Dialog box) (or "HDR conversion" (HDR Conversion) for versions below CS5). The best way to get the settings right is to set the gamma value first, then adjust the exposure value. If you need a very contrasty image, reduce the gamma value. For less contrast, increase. Finally, adjust the exposure to get the desired brightness:

Step 7

Change the way method) in meaning " Local Adaptation» ( local adaptation). There are 4 available methods in total, but only 2 of them are available for user customization.

With the help of local adaptation ( local adaptation), you will have access to several additional toning settings. The use of curves is desirable as they can help you fine-tune the parameters. If you are familiar with curves, turn this setting on.

Don't be afraid to cut off the histogram a bit because you're working with a lot of dynamic range. Keep the details of the image clear, but don't forget to add shadows, otherwise the photo will look flat and unnatural.

edge glow

Once you've set up the curves, start adjusting the radius ( radius) and intensity ( strength) to avoid ghosting in the photo. ( On poorly made HDR images, you will notice ghosting at the edges of contrast areas.). The Radius controls the blur mask, while the Intensity setting determines the amount of the effect applied.

Tone and details

Gamma: This is where you control the contrast. Extreme values wash out details or highlight them very strongly.
"Exposure" (Exposure): Overall brightness control.
"Details" (Detail): Here you adjust the sharpness of the image.

Additional settings

Shadow: Restores detail in the darkest parts of a photo.
Highlight: Restores detail in the brightest parts of a photo.
"Juiciness" (Vibrance): This setting makes the photo more colorful without over-saturating it.
"Saturation" (Saturation): Increases or decreases the total amount of color. Be careful not to oversaturate the overall picture.

Click OK to apply the settings:

Step 8

We got an HDR image. Photoshop is a great tool for creating realistic HDR images:

Step 8b

HDR, Lightroom and Camera RAW (Photoshop CC)

A new feature added in Lightroom 4.2+ and Camera Raw in Photoshop CC is the ability to work with 32-bit images. This is great because you can use the brush to fine-tune areas of the photo while working in a 32-bit environment. The image below shows the result of working with a brush in Lightroom. Notice how I was able to process the image. ( The same is possible in ACR).

At step 4, we are in the Merge to HDR dialog box (Merge to HDR):

Select "32 bit" from the "Mode" drop down menu ( mode) if something else is selected;
Check the box next to " Full Rendering in Adobe Camera Raw» (“ Complete Toning in Adobe Camera Raw”). The button in the lower right corner will change the name from OK to " Tone in ACR»;
Press the Tone to ACR button. The image will open in Camera Raw . You can apply all settings in Camera Raw, but only with the benefit of working in 32-bit. HDR - The image you get will have much more detail in light and shadow. ( Use the options for adjusting the settings for shadows and lights). You can also refer to the ACR manual;
Click "OK" when finished;
The image is still in 32-bit mode. If you're going to be toning, you can go back to step 5 and do it in advanced mode in Photoshop. By the way, you can do double toning.

If you are satisfied with the result and do not intend to continue processing the image, convert the image to 8 or 16 bits. Select a menu command Image - Mode (« Image>Mode>”) 8 or 16 bits. A pop-up window with settings will appear. To keep the same settings that were exposed in Camera Raw, choose the " Exposure and gamma» ( Exposure and Gamma). Set "Exposure" ( exposure) to 0 and "Gamma" ( gamma) to a value of 1. Click OK. The image is ready!

Note: If you can't open the HDR toning settings ( toning tools) in Photoshop CC, you need to follow additional steps. Select the menu item " Editing - Settings - File Handling» ( Preferences>File Handling).

The option is called " Use Adobe Camera Raw to convert from 32bit to 16/8bit» ( Use Adobe Camera Raw to Convert Documents from 32 bit to 16/8 bit”). If it is enabled, in the menu " Image - Mode» ( File>Mode) you will see Camera Raw . Otherwise, Photoshop will use standard HDR rendering methods.

Time to try one of them in practice.

Everyone who has ever photographed sunset and sunrise has faced the problem of insufficient dynamic range. In reality, everything is very beautiful, but in the photo - one of two things: either solid black below, or instead of a beautiful sky - a whitish spot.

Two typical options when shooting contrasting scenes. In one, dark areas are worked out, and the bright sky is lost. In another, the sky is worked out, but only a black spot remains from the forest in the foreground.

Each successive generation of modern cameras has a wider dynamic range. For example, the Nikon D810 has a dynamic range of 14.8 EV, while the more budget Nikon D3300 has a slightly smaller 12.8 EV (according to the DXOmark lab). This is sufficient for most plots. Many stories can be "pulled out" from one RAW-image with competent shooting and processing. But these opportunities may not be enough, for example, to shoot sunset or dawn landscapes.

We know that HDR is a technology for expanding the dynamic range in a photo. Don't confuse it with the rough processing effect, often referred to as the "HDR effect"! An HDR image can be made natural and attractive - it all depends on the skill and tastes of the photographer.

HDR technology allows you to combine frames with different brightness, resulting in a picture with detailed details in both light and dark areas of the frame.

Many modern cameras and even smartphones allow you to create HDR yourself, the photographer only needs to turn on the desired mode. However, this method also has disadvantages:

The photographer practically cannot influence the result, make any serious adjustments to the operation of automation;

The resulting image is saved as JPEG, not RAW. This, of course, will not suit advanced photographers who prefer to shoot in RAW, because this format provides the highest photo quality and the widest possibilities for computer processing.

Many photographers prefer to create HDR images on a computer using dedicated software.

How to make HDR on a computer? Perhaps the easiest way today is to use the corresponding function in Adobe Lightroom. This program allows you to create HDR images and save them in DNG (similar to RAW) format. This is convenient, because in the future we will be able to continue working with the created image in the same way as with any other in this program. The HDR stitching feature has been available in Adobe Lightroom since version 6.0.

But before gluing something, it is necessary to correctly photograph those frames that we will process in the future. Here you can make the following recommendations:

Use a tripod. For HDR stitching, it is important to take several frames from the same point. In this case, the camera must be absolutely motionless, otherwise the final image may turn out to be blurry. To fix the camera, it is installed on tripod.

NIKON D810 / 18.0-35.0 mm f/3.5-4.5 SETTINGS: ISO 100, F8, 1/60 s, 35.0 mm equiv.

NIKON D810 / 18.0-35.0mm f/3.5-4.5 SETTINGS: ISO 100, F8, 1/60s, 32.0mm equiv.

The optimal number of shots for HDR is 3-5. The more frames we make, the more correct the result will be and the more it will be possible to expand the dynamic range.

Use exposure bracketing. When using HDR technology, we need to take several shots with different exposures. Exposure bracketing is available on all professional grade cameras. This feature is available on Nikon DSLRs starting with the D7200.

Owners of cameras not equipped with bracketing can create frames with different exposures by manually photographing one frame with zero compensation, the second with negative, and the third with positive. At the same time, do not forget that the exposure compensation step should be the same: if you photograph a dark frame with -2 correction, then it is better to take a bright frame with +2 EV correction.

So, the shooting is done:

Now let's move on to processing. We launch the Adobe Lightroom program and import our photos into it, then go to the Develop section. Select a series of images (simultaneously pressing Ctrl and the right mouse button) and go to the context menu (right mouse button). There, in the Photo Merge section, we will find the desired function.

After clicking on the "HDR ..." item, a preview window for the future image will open. In the right part of the window, you can adjust some gluing parameters.

Auto Align- when you click on it, the program will try to combine the files, if they were not taken from a tripod, without blurring the image.

Auto tone- the program will automatically adjust the brightness of the photo. You may well disagree with the opinion of the program. In the future, it will be possible to adjust both the brightness and other parameters. Turn on the Auto Tone function if you want to have some kind of starting point, a guideline during further processing.

Function Deghost helps to get rid of "ghosts", that is, traces of a moving object, and the parameters Deghost Amount adjust the power of its work. If there is no movement in your images, it is better to turn off the function or set it to Low. Check mark Show deghost amount allows you to see the area of operation of this function - frame fragments in which the program has recognized motion and is going to remove it.

So, a few gluing parameters are configured. We press the button Merge. After that, the program will start creating a file with the finished image. Let's wait a bit until it appears in the image catalog.

Because I included the feature Auto tone, the program itself tried to adjust the image parameters:

All corrections made by automatics were displayed in a quite familiar way. They can be seen in the image correction window. Now we can change them the way we want. Needless to say, each specific case will require its own settings? Of course, there are no universal settings.

I settled on the following:

Additionally, I removed the glare from the sun with the tool Spot Removal and flattened the horizon a bit with the crop tool.

So here is the finished image:

Since the photo is saved in DNG format, you can work with it in the same way as with any other image. For example, you can export it to disk in JPEG format and put it on the Internet (as I did), or you can continue processing by opening it in any other photo editor.

If you spend enough time on photo sites, you've probably noticed a lot of photos with deliberately bright images. This is an HDR photo. Let's see what this term means.

HDR (High Dynamic Range) is an imaging technique that allows for a wider dynamic range of exposure than would be possible with conventional photographic methods available. HDR is commonly used for landscape photography to emphasize the visual impact of light and shadow over a large range.

by Helmut R. Kahr

No person can be credited with the invention of HDR photography. It is rather an evolution in photography that began with Ansel Adams' zonal system and continues all the way to modern photo post-processing programs.

During the reign of film photography, the cut-off range was added by altering the negatives when printed. They darkened or brightened the necessary places in the image in order to eventually get a picture well worked out in all problem areas.

by Ansel Adams. Falls Nevada. Rainbow. Yosemite National Park. California. 1946.

When digital photography began to rule the world, users very quickly figured out how to increase the dynamic range of an image by shooting the same frame with multiple exposures. You can love or even hate HDR photography, but there is no doubt that it already firmly occupies a certain niche today.

by Marc Perrella

This type of photographic image is characterized by “heavy” color saturation, a strong halo along the border of contrasting shades and a general surreal look at the image. Most viewers, having seen enough HDR shots, say that: “It looks like a painting!” It could be considered a compliment if it were not added: "This is not a photograph."

Meanwhile, there are more and more photographers who often use HDR in their work to create a big effect. As with any art form, do not overdo it, then even the acrimonious criticism that HDR destroys photography as an art form will not be taken so seriously by those who are just taking their first steps in mastering photography.

by Basile Francesco

It is important to know that the increased brightness and expressiveness of the image is not a prerequisite for the HDR process. The term HDR applies to all images in which . The original goal of HDR photography is to look at the world around you in terms of the fantasy of the image, while remaining in the range of balance between light and shadow.

by Danny Xeero

Traditional HDR is achieved by taking multiple frames with different exposures. You need to take 3-7 photos, each with a slightly different shutter speed. After the received images are combined into a single one, the result is that the dynamic range becomes much greater than the most modern digital technology can provide, which sometimes cannot reproduce even the semblance of what the human eye sees.

The HDR photos themselves are designed to bring the digital image closer in saturation and detail in highlights and shadows to how a person sees and perceives the surroundings. And as in any creative process, a lot depends on the taste of the photographer, on his preparedness and ability to distinguish a good photo from a bad one. In essence, you need to know when you can use HDR without harming the final result.

Landscapes HDR photo

Whenever a photographer is dealing with an expansive mother nature scene, it's an excuse to take multiple shots of the same scene at different exposures. When there is a large contrast difference between the sky and the ground in the landscape, it creates a problem for the camera, which cannot decipher how to properly process the image that entered the viewfinder due to conflicting data. By exposing the exposure first to the ground (water) and then to the sky, the photographer, when overlaying, will get a more truthful image in the dynamic range as a result.

by Karl Williams

Lighting

When you have to shoot in low light or a backlit subject, this can result in an image that is darker than you hoped. In this case, the use of HDR can be the best.

When not to use HDR

Just as there are situations to make the best use of HDR, there are times when you shouldn't use it at all.

Motion

There are several reasons why objects in motion don't translate well into HDR. If your subject is running or running or moving, say, on horseback using the HDR technique, you will most likely end up with a blurry shot. Why? It is because the object is moving. Remember that for HDR you need to take at least three shots? In this case, the moving object in a fraction of a second will be in a completely different place in each subsequent image. With a high degree of probability, when combined, blur will occur.

Bright colours

If the scene you are shooting has too many dark areas or too many bright areas, HDR will "invent" some colors on its own in those areas where it is not enough. And if there are many bright colors, then with a high degree of probability it will lighten, “wash” them.

HDR can be a great tool for getting artistically interesting photos, as well as technically better ones when you have to shoot in bright sunlight with dark (failed) shadows. How this tool is used depends largely on the photographer. It is necessary to try, experiment and learn to translate new skills into reality in order to raise the level of your skill and be able to find a way out of seemingly hopeless situations from the point of view of photography.