Growing garden and ornamental shrubs from cuttings. Propagation of trees and shrubs by cuttings
Hello reader!
Today I want to talk about the propagation of shrubs by cuttings. Berry bushes can be successfully propagated by cuttings. Best respond to rooting attempts (black and gold), sea buckthorn, Isabella grapes. In second place in terms of survival will be: honeysuckle, red and white currants, gooseberries, actinidia, large-fruited varietal grapes. Do not lend themselves to rooting cuttings:, chokeberry, wild rose. They can be propagated by layering, but this is the topic of another article, I promise to write it soon.
Propagation of shrubs by cuttings
- Procurement of cuttings
- Preparing the land
- Landing
- Watering
- Summer cuttings
Procurement of cuttings
Cuttings can be prepared in the fall (at the end of September) or in the spring (without waiting for the buds to open).
1. Autumn cuttings
We select branches for cuttings from well-ripened lignified annual shoots. We cut the branches so that they have 3-4 buds, and store them in a bag in the refrigerator or cellar until winter. Then we transfer it to storage in the snow (without a bag), you can wrap it in a rag. When the snow melts, we again transfer the cuttings in a bag to the cellar or refrigerator. Before planting, the cuttings will need to be soaked in snow (melt) water - this operation is called hydration.
2. Spring cuttings
We select well-wintered branches that grew last year. We cut the cuttings (just like autumn ones). Store until planting in the snow or in a bag in the refrigerator.
Preparing the land
We choose a place for landing in the shade or partial shade. It is advisable to prepare the soil from a mixture of soddy soil, humus, sand and peat, then the cuttings will take root better, and the root system will form more powerfully. On poor soils, of course, rooting will be more difficult, but possible. If possible, it is better to root in a greenhouse or greenhouse (it is easier to maintain the desired humidity there).
Landing
When warm weather sets in and the earth warms up to +8 +10 ° С (usually in the middle lane, the beginning of May), we plant our cuttings in prepared ridges. Immediately before planting, it is advisable to split the lower ends of the branches for better root formation. We drop the cuttings obliquely, leaving one kidney on the surface of the earth, which looks up. After that, water the soil well and
Watering
In order for as many cuttings to take root as possible, you need to water often a little, so that the earth is always wet, but do not flood! A greenhouse in this case is ideal, especially for hard-to-root plants. It can create high humidity, which helps to form roots easier and faster. When the first shoots and leaves appear on the branches, this means that they successfully grow roots. Most likely, not all branches will please you with good growth (some will dry out altogether). During this period, watering is reduced, watered only to prevent the soil from drying out.
Summer cuttings
If you did not have time to prepare the cuttings early in the spring or saw some interesting variety from your friends in the summer, you can try to root a few branches. To do this, you need to carefully cut off the leaves and flower brushes from them, cut the cuttings, immediately split the tips of the branches stronger - “swirl” and put in water for a couple of days with the addition of “root”. Then we do everything as with ordinary cuttings (we tirelessly monitor the humidity!). In this case, it is even more difficult to achieve the growth of cuttings, but it is possible. It all depends on your desire and perseverance.
Very responsible work at the dacha in late June - very early July - propagation by cuttings of shrubs. This is the best time for cuttings; at a later date, roots form, but do not have time to fully form and overwinter normally.
In most cases, with further propagation, rooting cuttings in water is absolutely not suitable for most shrub crops. The roots formed in it are very fragile, when transplanted into the ground they often die off, the plant has to grow them twice, and this is a waste of time. Therefore, planting cuttings for propagating shrubs in the country is best done immediately into the soil.
The most important requirement for the soil is light, well-cultivated, nitrogen-depleted soil. It is categorically excluded the introduction of manure and compost to where the cuttings will grow. The optimal composition of the soil for plants is peat mixed with sand with the addition of charcoal. If the soil is still rich in nitrogen, it is necessary to make the desired layer a few centimeters thick, without mixing with the main earth.
The second requirement for the reproduction of shrubs is already to the environment, namely to the air. We create its high humidity in the country with the help of a plastic film, a plastic can or a cut plastic bottle. In addition, diffused light is needed. We achieve this with the help of any non-woven material, burlap, polymer film, or simply by allocating a landing site for propagation of cuttings in the shade of a house or trees.
Many types of shrubs do not care where rooting takes place. But honeysuckle, jasmine is better to take root in the shade. On the contrary, roses, hydrangeas, phloxes, Kuril tea, spireas are more suitable for a greenhouse in the sun, but always covered with light-diffusing material.
Cuttings of shrubs of park roses, especially wrinkled roses, take root very poorly during reproduction. Roses from bouquets, in principle, can be rooted, but here you need to remember that the thinner the stem, the less time the roses stood in the water, the higher their chance of rooting. Cuttings of tree-like peonies, garden blueberries and varietal clematis almost do not take root.
Now we go directly to the very actions for propagating cuttings of shrubs using the example of a greenhouse or garden bed, which should have a minimum area of \u200b\u200b- 50 by 50 cm and a height of 25 cm.
We dig the soil, level it, if necessary, make a layer of peat with sand. We install the arcs, fix a plastic film on them, put a light-scattering material on top.
Roses in the country are best rooted in the warm season at temperatures of the order of +25 +28 degrees. If the summer turned out to be cool, then we heat the cuttings of shrubs using dry grass, hay or foliage. We take out the fertile soil layer, lay organic materials at the bottom with a layer of 30 cm, tamp them, sprinkle with urea or other nitrogen fertilizer, and spill with hot water. We return the soil to its place, above the garden bed, install a frame with a greenhouse, cover it with a film. In a few days, the decomposition of organic matter will begin, and after a week, rose cuttings can be planted for propagation.
The day before grafting, we abundantly spill the mother bushes of the plant. The shrub branches that we have outlined are treated with one of the drugs against fungal diseases, such as Topaz or Fitosporin. Preparations containing copper - avoid. For roses, we additionally add Fitoverm from spider mites to the preparation. During the day, the drugs will be absorbed and begin to act, increasing the resistance of the cuttings to infections.
Shortly before grafting, we spill the greenhouse and cover it to achieve greater humidity.
Toward evening, we cut off the relatively thin branches of shrubs intended for reproduction with secateurs. The desired diameter on the cut is not more than 1 cm. Roses and viburnum have cuttings during or immediately after flowering. We take branches with flowers only from roses, Japanese spirea and Kuril tea. We take growth shoots from other types of shrubs. In coniferous species, we take cuttings from young plants, due to a decrease in rooting ability with age.
Further actions must be carried out immediately, which does not exclude the transportation of harvested cuttings (or short-term storage) in a wet cloth wrapped in polyethylene.
In the lower part of the cuttings we make an oblique incision, in the upper part - a straight or oblique one. In conifers, we break them off with a piece of the main shoot. The lower ends are immediately immersed in the input, and from the lower part we remove those leaves that will be underground. In species of shrubs with large leaves, we reduce the evaporating surface by shortening the upper pair of leaves in hydrangeas, while in roses with large leaves, we remove the terminal leaf blade, leaving only the side ones.
In the soil prepared for propagation, there should be at least one node of the planted cuttings of the shrub. When planting a plant, we slightly open the edge of the shelter and, having landed it, immediately lower the edge so that nothing dries out. The distance between the cuttings depends on the size of the leaves. It is desirable that they do not touch each other. After planting, cover with polyethylene and shading material.
In the following days, every evening we water the plantings with warm water. We do not open the film for a long time. So we take care until full rooting and until full adaptation in September. When caring for shrub cuttings, be sure to remove all dried and fallen leaves. Spray with fungicide every 10 days.
L. I. Rubtsov, "Beautiful flowering shrubs for green building in the Ukrainian SSR"
Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the Ukrainian SSR, Kyiv, 1952
Published with some abridgements.
Ornamental flowering shrubs propagate either by sowing seeds, or by vegetative cuttings, grafting and layering.
Seedlings grown from seeds usually form a better, more branching root system, due to which they take root more firmly and develop more vigorously and more luxuriantly.
However, many varieties of shrubs created in the practice of horticulture either do not produce germinating seeds (Viburnum "Snowball", panicled hydrangea, double cherries), or do not transmit all the valuable qualities of this variety (lilacs, jasmines, roses) to their offspring during seed propagation. In these cases, resort to vegetative propagation - cuttings, grafting, layering.
Seed propagation is used in cases where mass material of shrubs of the main species is grown, and mainly those in which seedlings reach a significant size in the first year, as well as when introducing (introducing) new plant species and breeding new varieties and varieties through selection and hybridization.
Sowing large seeds of resistant varieties can be done directly into the ground, in the nursery ridges. Sowing small seeds, as well as seeds of rare and low-resistant varieties, is best done in sowing boxes in greenhouses or hotbeds, followed by picking them into the ground.
For sowing in boxes, a light nutritious earthen mixture is taken, consisting of equal parts of sifted humus, leafy soil and sand.
Very small seeds - meadowsweet, jasmine, action, buddley, hydrangeas - when sown in boxes are not covered with earth, but only tightly pressed against it, and the boxes themselves are covered with glass to form stale air.
Follow-up care consists of maintaining a constant humidity by watering with a very fine mesh watering can and shading the tender seedlings to protect them from direct sunlight. Sprouted seedlings are gradually accustomed to fresh air and light.
After the development of the second and third leaves, the seedlings are carefully transplanted (dive) into new boxes and for some time again keep in the stale air. In summer, seedlings dive into boxes again (if necessary) or land directly into the ground.
Vegetative propagation - by cuttings, grafting and layering - is very important for ornamental flowering shrubs, since vegetatively propagated specimens usually bloom faster than seed ones and bloom richer. This method helps to quickly propagate a rare or new variety that does not yet produce seeds, and, finally, accurately transfers the properties of the original maternal form to new specimens.
The most common method of vegetative propagation is cuttings, i.e., propagation of a plant by organs separated from the mother specimen - roots, shoots, buds or leaves.
Cutting propagation is based on the ability of living plant tissues to regenerate (transform) in violation of the normal conditions for their development. This method has the advantage that a large number of new individuals can be obtained from one uterine specimen of the plant.
Depending on the origin, the cuttings are root, stem and leaf. Shrubs propagate relatively rarely by root cuttings, and only those that are difficult to propagate by stem cuttings: various aralia, acanthopanax, aralia, small-flowered chestnut, shadberry, tree pliers, Japanese quince, Syrian rose, peony, raspberries, tekoma, chekalkin walnut.
With this method, root segments are used when the plants are released from the nursery, or circular trenches are dug near the mother plants and part of their roots is cut off.
The roots taken out of the ground are cut with a sharp knife into pieces 4-10 cm long and tied into bundles. At the same time, it is absolutely necessary to put the root segments in bundles with the upper (closest to the trunk) end in one direction, the lower one in the other and mark them with something, since otherwise it will be completely impossible to determine when planting where the upper end of the cutting is, where the lower.
Harvesting of roots is carried out in the fall after leaf fall and in the spring before the start of sap flow. The roots harvested in autumn are stored in cellars in the sand or dug in a place protected from severe freezing of the soil.
In spring, cuttings are planted vertically or somewhat obliquely in a greenhouse - in sand or light sandy soil. In order to avoid severe burns under the glass, the frames had to be shaded with lath shields or smeared with lime on the glass.
When the shoots developed from the cuttings reach a sufficient height, the plants should be gradually accustomed to the air.
The method of propagation by stem cuttings has received the greatest distribution in ornamental gardening. There are cuttings winter, or lignified, and summer, or green.
Many shrubs propagate with lignified, or winter, cuttings: buddley, action, diervilla, forsythia, hydrangeas, kerria, honeysuckle, jasmine, rosacea, meadowsweet.
Material for cuttings - one-year mature shoots - is harvested in late autumn, when the plants are in a dormant period, or at the beginning of winter, before the onset of severe frosts, which can kill the shoots or weaken their ability to form roots.
In breeds that tolerate harsh winters well, shoots can be cut in early spring, before the start of sap flow. Cut shoots are stored in bunches in the sand in the basement.
In early spring, the shoots are cut into cuttings 10-15-20 cm long with three to five buds. The upper cut of the cutting is made above the bud, the lower one - below the bud, obliquely to the axis of the shoot - so that the bud sits on the formed wedge, and not above it.
The cuttings cut in this way are planted either in the beds of the breeding department of the nursery, or in a greenhouse under glass.
The cuttings are planted in holes made with a planting peg. It is not recommended to press the cutting directly into the soil, no matter how loose it may be, as this lifts the bark, which leads to decay of the cutting.
When planting in the soil, the upper kidney should be 1-2 cm above the ground.
Constant, sufficient moisture and looseness of the soil both in open ground and in greenhouses is of great importance for the rooting of the cutting.
During summer, or green, cuttings, a growing, not yet very lignified shoot, which has a bark of fresh, green color, is cut off into cuttings. With this method, the time of taking the shoot is of great importance for the success of rooting.
For most shrubs in the climatic conditions of Kyiv, the first half of June can be considered the best time for taking cuttings. Cutting shoots is best done early in the morning, when the shoot and leaves have the largest water supply.
Before cutting, to reduce evaporation, leaf blades on the shoot are reduced to half. Cuttings from shoots are cut in a shaded place.
As a rule, the length of the cutting should not exceed the length of one internode with buds and leaf petioles sitting above and below. Elongation of the cutting beyond the specified limits makes it difficult for plastic substances to reach the lower end of the cutting and slows down rooting.
Both cuts, upper and lower, should be as close as possible to the bases of the sheet cushions. Until planting, the cuttings are placed in wet moss or kept with their lower ends in water.
The cuttings are planted in greenhouses under glass in well-washed coarse sand, poured in a layer of 3-5 cm on a layer of turf mixture or humus soil with sand. The soil is well watered before planting.
The cuttings are planted to a depth of 0.5 cm. Rooting proceeds best at a temperature of 20-25 °. To protect from direct sunlight, glass must be whitened or covered with gauze or shields. Rooted cuttings are gradually accustomed to fresh air.
By autumn, the cuttings of most of the plants finish growing, they are added dropwise for the winter, and in the spring they are planted in a school.
Due to the use of small parts of the shoot for propagation, plants that are available in a limited number of specimens can be quickly propagated in this way.
Most ornamental shrubs are well propagated by summer cuttings and give a high percentage of rooting.
The method of propagation by grafting is used in the propagation of ornamental shrubs, mainly lilacs, ornamental cherries, tree peony and roses, to obtain pure-grade and stable material, as well as to obtain standard specimens of plants that usually grow as a bush.
Grafting is done by a kidney or an eye (budding) and a cutting (actually grafting). Budding is done in summer, in August, during the second sap flow.
For budding, buds are taken only from the middle part of the shoot, since in its upper part the buds are usually immature, and in the lower part they are underdeveloped.
Budding is carried out either in the root neck, if they want to get a bush form, or in a trunk and its branches to get a standard tree.
The budding technique is described in many textbooks on fruit growing and ornamental gardening. A T-shaped incision is made on the rootstock. Its edges are carefully bent, and a thin shield cut from the scion with an eye is inserted into the incision.
The shield is pressed tightly with the folds of the bark and tied with raffia or bast, leaving the petiole of the leaf with the kidney sitting in its bosom free.
In the early spring of the next year, the bandage is removed and the wild cut is cut off slightly above the eye.
A grafted eye, sitting on the root system of a two to three year old plant or an older trunk, gives a very strong growth, and a new plant is soon formed from it.
Grafting by a cutting when propagating ornamental flowering shrubs is not of great importance and is used (with the exception of roses) relatively rarely. Of the ornamental flowering shrubs, terry varieties of tree peony propagate exclusively by grafting on the tubers of a grassy peony.
Vaccination is carried out in early August. For grafting cuttings from the mother bushes of a tree-like peony, shoots are selected that are the strongest and with well-developed buds. The leaves are removed from them, only the petioles remain.
Grafting cuttings are cut into pieces with two well-developed buds. The lower end of the handle is cut off in the form of a trihedral wedge, two sides of which are formed by cuts, while the third remains intact.
The size of the wedge of the grafting cutting should correspond to the size of the wedge-shaped cutout on the tuber of the herbaceous peony.
A rootstock tuber of a herbaceous peony is cut off smoothly at the upper end, a wedge-shaped cut is made on it and a grafting cutting is inserted into it.
After the cutting is carefully inserted into the rootstock cutout, the graft is tied with copper wire, which is removed only in the spring after the cutting has completely grown together with the stock.
The grafted tuber is planted in a pot with loose soil (so that the grafted bud is above ground level) and placed in a cool greenhouse with stale air.
The grafted cuttings first get their food from the tubers, then take root and feed on their own. In autumn, the pots are transferred to a cold greenhouse, and the grafts are planted in the ground only after young spring growth. In the early years, vaccinations require careful protection from winter frosts.
When propagating ornamental shrubs, it is very effective, but in the practice of ornamental gardening, the method of propagation by layering is still not very common.
The Forest-Steppe Experimental Station of the Ministry of Public Utilities (Station Efremovo, Orel Region) did a great deal of work on testing various methods of layer propagation. As a result of the experiments, it was found that layer propagation in a number of cases is more effective than summer cuttings.
The advantages of the layering method are in the better development of shoots and roots in newly developing plants, which reduces the period of their upbringing by one to two years, and in a greater percentage of rooted plants.
The most well-known method in the practice of ornamental gardening is diversion into grooves or a bow, in which the shoot or branch bends to the bottom of the groove, and its end is brought out, is less effective. Due to the limited number of shoots and branches suitable for layering, the yield of plants is low and they are obtained with a curved shoot, very inconvenient for planting.
Much more effective is the method of horizontal layering, or the method of spreading shoots. In this case, not one part takes root, but the entire shoot.
The young shoots developing from the buds and the roots located under them later form independent plants by dividing the rooted layer into several parts. To do this, grow strong coppice bushes with a large number of well-developed, as long as possible shoots.
In the spring, before bud break, on a well-leveled surface around the bush, the shoots are laid out radially in full length into grooves 1.2-2 cm deep and pinned to the ground along their entire length without any bend at the ends.
In order to avoid burns of the bark, the shoot is sprinkled on top with 0.5-1 cm of humus. Shoots appearing from the buds of a pinned branch, as soon as they reach 15-18 cm, sprinkle with earth up to one third.
In the future, as it grows, hilling is repeated one or two times. By autumn, a significant number of strong shoots develop on each layer: according to the experiments of the Forest-Steppe Station, up to 11 in lilacs, up to 15 in snowball viburnum, and up to 54 in forsythia.
The number of shoots on a cutting depends on its length and the density of the buds on it. The imposition of a soft wire constriction at the first well-developed kidney significantly enhances the rooting of the layering.
From a bush of four to seven years of age, some plants get 50-120 plants of good growth and rooting. Lilacs, viburnum, jasmine, meadowsweet, forsythia and other ornamental flowering shrubs can be propagated in this way.
No less effective is the method of propagation by hilling young shoots. The young growing growth of the current year is spudded as it grows two or three times, each time up to 1/4-1/3 of its height. The first hilling is done when the shoots reach 15-20 cm in height.
Under favorable conditions of humidity and heat, fairly good rooting should occur by autumn. Meadowsweet, action, hydrangea, jasmine reproduce well by this method; the rooting of shoots from the constriction of the removed shoots with soft wire is significantly improved.
The constriction is made at the end of May or the first decade of June, when the young shoots in their lower parts are more or less woody. The constriction is done on the shoot possibly lower, in two or three adjacent turns. In the future, the constricted shoots are spudded with earth, as in the previous case.
With a strong growth of coppice bushes from one bush, up to 50 rooted plants are obtained with a height of each 100-130 cm.
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Ornamental shrubs can be propagated by seeds, layering, woody and green cuttings, root offspring, grafting and, finally, division of the mother bush.
The simplest and most affordable way is seed propagation. Using it, one should take into account the biological characteristics of the seeds. So, for example, in elm and willow, they lose their germination very quickly and should be sown immediately after harvest.
Meadowsweet, mock oranges, Kuril tea, mountain ash - very small, do not require stratification, but it is better to sow them in boxes with loose, well-moistened soil, covered with glass, installed under the canopy of trees. This method makes it possible to obtain seedlings in 2-3 years. If the process needs to be accelerated, sowing can be carried out in February-March at room conditions.
After the appearance of true leaves, the seedlings dive, harden off and planted for growing in open ground. This makes it possible to grow seedlings in 1-2 years.
Good results are obtained by sowing these seeds in ridges that have been prepared since autumn, also in a slightly shaded place. In early spring they are covered with a film, after the soil thaws to a depth of 20-25 cm, it is removed, the seeds are sown, pressing them to the soil, and again covered with a film.
Further care consists in timely watering and removing the film during sunny hours. When shoots appear (after 30 days), it is completely removed and the plants grow to 30-50 cm so that they can be planted for a constant time.
Seeds of alpine currant, all kinds, vesicles, ash and others, for better germination, are soaked in water before planting and kept at a temperature of 16-18 ° in a humid state in the open air. Seeds with a dense shell such as acacia can be treated with acid or scalded with boiling water.
Most of the seeds of ornamental species require a long pre-sowing preparation and therefore they are best sown in the fall. If this is not possible, a special preparation method, stratification, will be used to speed up this process.
Its essence is as follows. The seeds are pre-soaked, mixed with coarse-grained river sand, sawdust or peat (1: 3) and poured into a clay pot, box or plastic bag, previously washed with a 3% solution of potassium permanganate.
The container must have holes for aeration, if there are very few seeds, they are placed in a substrate in nylon bags.
Reproduction of decorative forms of park roses, common lilac, some types of meadowsweet, can be carried out by layering like blackcurrant.
Lignified cuttings reproduce well tamarix, kurai willow, brilliant, etc. Shoots are cut in the spring at the beginning of sap flow. They are cut into cuttings 25-30 m long and immediately planted in moist soil, can be kept in a solution of heteroauxin (200 mg / l) for 24 hours. Cuttings are planted at an angle of 45 °, 1-2 buds remain on the surface. The soil is kept moist throughout the summer.
If you have old bushes of mock orange, Kuril tea, honeysuckle or other species on your site, they can be propagated by dividing the bush. As soon as the soil thaws, carefully dig the bush out of the ground, divide it with a pruner or saw into several parts, remove all the old branches, and shorten the young ones by two-thirds of the part, leave 2-3 buds at the base of the shoots in park roses, and only young mock-ups and lilacs branches can not be cut, because most of them, without any damage to the development of the bush, can bloom in the same year.
When planting in a new place, deepen the divided bushes by 10-15 cm. The soil should be loose and nutritious, watering abundantly, 4-5 times per summer.
The most intensive method of propagation of ornamental shrubs, as well as currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn and other species, is green cuttings. It allows you to get a seedling from almost every internode of annual growth.
This work is best done during the period of budding or flowering of mother bushes. During this period, most of the plants have a good rooting ability and the cuttings do not need additional treatment with oral substances. Cuttings of difficult-to-root species are treated with heteroauxin (200 mg/l), treatment time is 17-24 hours.
The green cutting is part of an annual shoot limited by two internodes. Its length should not be shorter than 5 cm, if the internodes are short, then they are taken 2, 3, even 5 (in sea buckthorn, Kuril tea, meadowsweet, etc.).
The lower cut is made from 0.5-1 cm below the node, the upper one is 0.5-1 cm above the node. The lower leaves are removed completely. The stalk should not be too herbaceous or heavily lignified. The work is done with a sharpened knife or razor. Prepare shoots from bushes in the morning, cut into cuttings in the shade.
For growing cuttings, you can use the existing greenhouses after sampling seedlings in early June, or make a special nursery.
The soil for it is prepared nutritious. 30-50 kg of humus are added per 1 m², dug to a depth of 22-25 cm, a bed is made 35-37 cm high and a light wooden box is placed on it, the lower part of which is pressed into the ground by 5-6 cm.
The surface inside is leveled, after which pure river sand or a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1) is poured in an even layer (5 cm). Before cuttings, the substrate is moistened, watered with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, cuttings are planted at a distance of 2-3 cm in a row and 5-6 cm between rows.
Planting depth corresponds to the thickness of the sand layer or slightly less. After planting, the cuttings are watered abundantly with water. In the future, air humidity of 85-95% is maintained by spraying from a hose or watering can in hot weather 4-5 times a day, cloudy, two sprays are enough.
The nursery is covered with glazed frames or film. So that during the day direct rays of the sun do not fall on the cuttings, and the temperature in the nursery is 20-27 °, it is better to place it under the canopy of trees. If this is not possible, it is necessary to create diffused light in the nursery by whitening the glass or film with lime, covering it with burlap or setting a canopy at a height of two meters from the soil level and covering it with branches or shields made of slats.
After the appearance of the roots, spraying is reduced and the airing of the cuttings is increased, gradually hardening them, the film is removed. For the winter, nurseries are covered with additional insulating material. In the spring, cuttings are planted for growing.