How to cook telno. How to cook a body of fish

Fish, boneless and minced

Ground meat

A collection of recipes from 1808 to 1909 from fish, beef, veal, and at the very end, our simple version of the body of fish in portioned pots.

1808 "COOKING CALENDAR OR SELF-EDUCATIONAL COOKING ARTS".

BEEF

Chop a pound of beef, and half a pound of ham fat very finely, let it out on one (six) eggs, add (worn) white bread, season with pepper, moisten with meat broth, add a spoonful of flour, and (..) do it, and then fry in cow's oil. Positive into the pan, add the cores of Savoy cabbage, pour in the meat broth, and boil.

1816 VASILY LEVSHIN "RUSSIAN COOKING".

It is made from pike and pike perch, and thus, looking ahead of the department about kulebyaks. After cooking, the body is fried in oil.

(I mean the recipe for "Kulebyakastelny", the text of which is given).

Kulebyak with body. Pike or pike perch, stripped from the bones, beat with the butt of a knife; loosen the flour in the water liquidly and in the continuation of churning with this to moisten the connection. Knock down the body, put in a moistened napkin, tie and boil in water. After cooking, chop finely, with the addition of boiled onion and pepper, add salt and use in the filling ... I mean in the filling of kulebyaki ..).

1846 K. AVDEEVA "HAND BOOK OF EXPERIENCED HOUSE"

Body. After removing the skin from the fish and selecting the bones, beat, put a little salt to make an oblong cake, stuff with boiled finely chopped elm, or minced meat from the same telnago, fried with onions and chopped: then pinch, roll up with an oblong steering wheel. dip into boiling broth, and so as not to fall apart, wrap in a clean canvas; when ready, take it out to cool, cut into circles and put on a dish.

1880 A. MAKAROV "RUSSIAN COOKBOOK"

Remove the meat from the bones from the cleaned and washed pike perch, put 1 teaspoon of salt. Pound it in a mortar, so that it is like dough; separate part of this dough, fry, mix with chopped vyazigoa boiled in salt water; make balls and fry them. Roll out the rest of the telnago into a cake, put balls and the above filling, pinch, roll into a ball, tie in a napkin and boil for half an hour; then take it out of the napkin, put it in a frying pan, pour it over with oil and put it in the oven so that it browns well. Serve cold.

Provisions: Pike perch from 4 to 5 pounds. Vyazigi from 1/8 to ¼ lb. Butter quarter pound. Salt 1 teaspoon.

Vinaigrette from Telnago.

Take telnago (see No. 6 of this department), cut into slices, fry in 2-3 tablespoons of oil, quick or fast, cool; fry the cleaned, washed, salted small fish, remove from the bones, cut into pieces; put the body and fish on a dish, pour over the following sauce: wipe a spoon or two tablespoons of Provencal oil with prepared mustard, salt, add sugar, dilute with vinegar and put capers. Remove the vinaigrette from above with slices of lemon, soaked apples, gooseberries. Cherries, gherkins or small cucumbers, salt and sprinkle with chopped dill.

Provisions:

Telnago from th to one and a half f. Oils from 2 to 3 lodges. Small fish 2 f. Apples are wet.2. Lace, cherries, currants 2 tablespoons. Provence oils. From 1 to 2 lodges. Mustard 1 spoon. Salt 1 teaspoon. Capers 1 spoon Lemon half. Fine sugar 1 teaspoon. Vinegar ½ cup. Green dill.

1891 N. A KOLOMIYTSOVA "AN NECESSARY DESKBOOK FOR YOUNG HOUSEHOLDS. A PUBLIC CHEAP AND DELICIOUS TABLE".

Veal body.

Veal lung 1f.

Ham fat ¼ lb.

French bun 1.

Chopped green parsley 1 table spoon.

Bulb 1.

Salted - to taste.

Egg yolks 4.

Cooking.

Raw veal lung chopped as finely as possible with ¼ lb. ham fat, add the pulp from 1 French roll, soaked in broth and squeezed out, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 onion, a little pepper, inbir and salt; chop all this well and mix with 4 yolks, make it like dough, put it in a napkin, tie it up and put it in a saucepan, cook; it’s good if you happen to cook in broth, but no - it’s so simple in water. Boil for ¾ hours and try to ensure that everything connected is covered with water; then after untie, lay out, cut into slices, sprinkle with pepper and salt. Meanwhile, melt 1/8 pound of butter in a frying pan, put in the chopped pieces and fry, adding three tablespoons of broth.

1893 V. FILATOVA "NEW BENEFITS FOR HOUSEWIVES"

Telnoe from zander.

Prepare a lean pike perch quenelle, as stated in No. 102, wrap the mass tightly in a clean napkin, which must first be rinsed in clean water so that it does not respond with soap. Wrap, dip in a saucepan with salted boiling water and cook. Or: having smeared the form with butter, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, put the quenelles there and bake in the closet. Serve with some onion sauce seasoned with vegetable oil.

1865 N.V. GROSS "NEWEST COOKBOOK".

Fried veal from pike perch.

After cleaning, gutting and washing the fresh pike perch, remove its meat from the bones, chop it smaller and softer and grind it in a mortar: then put there, according to the proportion of soaked white bread, walnut or poppy seed oil, finely crumbled and fried onions in oil, not a lot of finely crushed pepper, salt to taste, and all this, mixing well together, re-grinding again softer. After that, making small pies from the telnago prepared in this way, dip in lean clair, roll in grated saika or crumb of white bread, fry well in a frying pan in poppy seed oil and serve.

1851 GERASIM STEPANOV "THE LAST WORK OF THE BLIND OLD MAN GERASIM STEPANOV.."

Body cutlets with red cabbage.

Having removed the pulp from a couple of pike perch, chop it finely and grind it in a mortar as softly as possible: make patties from soaked French bread, nut butter, salt and pepper; when done, roll them in grated bread and fry in poppy seed oil; shredded red cabbage, fry it in a saucepan with nut butter; make a white sauce from Rhenish vinegar with sugar and boil, put the cutlets on a dish, put the cabbage in the middle of them and put the cutlets with lemon, pour over the white sauce.

1909 ALEKSANDROVA-IGNATIEV "Practical foundations of culinary art"".

Fish body.

(1 way)

Cooking rules. After removing the pike perch fillets from the bones and skin (see the general law on fish), separate ¼ of them into minced meat, chop the rest, or pass twice through a meat grinder, add the pulp of white bread soaked in cream and a piece of table oil and thoroughly mash the meat it is in a mortar; add salt and pepper to taste, as well as a little cream so that the mass is soft (as for cutlets) and wipe through a sieve. Cut the remaining ¼ of the fish pulp into small cubes, salt, sprinkle with pepper and simmer in oil with a small amount of fish broth (1 / 4 cups) along with finely chopped onions. After wetting the table with cold water, cut the prepared fish mass into portions so that each person has two pieces of telnago. Flatten each portion with a knife into a flat cake, put a spoonful of minced meat in the middle of it, wrap the edges of the cake inside with a knife, giving it the shape of a crescent and bread first in an egg, and then in crushed sifted breadcrumbs. Having cut, thus, dissolve all portions in a cast-iron frying pan or in a saucepan, put butter on it and brown on both sides. After that, put the stewpan on the edges of the stove and fry until fully cooked. Telnoye is served with green peas, fried potatoes and other side dishes and various sauces, such as white sauce, tomato sauce, crayfish and others.

(2 way)

Another method of preparation is more complicated and troublesome, but the flesh turns out to be more delicate in taste. Prepare knell mass from pike perch as follows: finely chop the fish fillets removed from the bones or grind in a meat grinder, then put in a mortar, adding a little ordinary cream (1 lb of pulp ¼ cup) and thoroughly pound, then rub through a sieve, put in a deep saucepan , add salt and pepper, put the pan in cold water or on ice and start whisking, in one direction, the rubbed mass with a spatula, adding a little thick cream (which is taken for whipping) until the mass increases in volume and becomes fluffy and tender ( for 1 lb of fish pulp ¾ cup of heavy cream), then ready.

Prepare minced meat, as indicated above, from the remaining ¼ of the amount of fish, but only add chopped champignons to it, season it with a thick tomato sauce and cool. Cut the knel mass on a sauce or tablespoon, put the cooked minced meat in the middle of each serving and cover well with a hot knife so that the minced meat is not visible from the outside. Then, having boiled the quenelles in salted boiling water, as usual, quenelles are boiled, that is, steamed, without boiling, take it out with a slotted spoon on a sieve, dry it, and then bread it in eggs and breadcrumbs and fry it in a tinted deep fat.

Lenten body. Telnoye belongs to the number of ancient Russian dishes, as they say, it is so called because it is prepared from the body of a fish. It can also be cooked lean. In this case, white bread is soaked in water or fish broth, instead of cream, cold water or cold fish broth is added; instead of quick oil - walnut, mustard, Provence or sunflower. In addition, lean body is not breaded in an egg, but only in breadcrumbs; fried in vegetable oil of the same variety, which is placed inside the telnago.

1902 P.M ZELENKO "Cooking Art".

Fish body. Prepare the same mass from fish as for fish cakes No. 824, rub it through a sieve, put it on ice and, adding a little thick cream, carefully knock out the mass with a spatula in order to make it white and tender. Divide this mass into thin cakes, put in the middle of each cake champignons uxel No. 469, if available, a little minced fish No. 556, a tiny piece of meat juice No. 95 or fish lanspik No. 101. Wrap each cake, form a cutlet out of it, breaded, as indicated in No. 37 or 38, fry in oil or on a roshper, or deep-fry. Release with sauces listed in No. 823, or with oils Nos. 422, 425, 427, 428.

WELL, AND OUR SIMPLE OPTION OF THE BODY IN PORTIONAL POT SHOWN IN THE PHOTOJ

Cod - 1.5 kg. Wash, remove the skin, remove the bones, grind in a meat grinder. Next, place in a bowl and ceiling (with a crush, which is for mashed potatoes).

Bulb onion - about 500g. Cut into cubes and fry (stew) in refined sunflower oil, see photo.

Mix the minced iluk, salt to taste, pepper with black ground pepper, add 1-2 eggs and knead with a wooden spoon, rubbing the mass well (or using a mashed potato crusher). At this stage, you can add thick rustic cream or sour cream (2-4 tablespoons).

Lubricate portioned pots with refined sunflower oil or in each pot, place 1 teaspoon of heavy cream or sour cream on the bottom, then fill the pots with minced meat. bake for about 20 minutes.

NOTES:

Remove the fried onions from the stewpan with a slotted spoon so that less oil gets into the minced meat, on which the onions were fried.

If you do not use eggs and sour cream, then you get a completely lean option.

No flour or crackers were used. However, if you cook not in pots, but in the form of cutlets, then you will need flour, as well as breading and eggs.

PS From cod weighing 1.5 kg, about 1 kg of minced meat was obtained (a little more).

Option 1 - lean body without eggs and cream (sour cream)

Option 2 - body with eggs and heavy cream as part of minced meat

Option 3 - body in sour cream (heavy cream)

Any fish is suitable for the body. It is best to buy ready-made fish fillets so as not to waste time removing the bones.

Cooking:

1. Boil mushrooms, cut into slices.
2. Finely chop the onion, fry together with mushrooms. Add salt and pepper. Optionally, you can add 1 tbsp to the mushroom mass. l. tomato paste.
3. Soak the bread in milk or water, pass through a meat grinder along with the fillet. To make the body especially tender, it is advisable to grind the mass at least 2 times. The crushed fish mass should turn out lush and airy.
4. Add the egg, salt, spices to the fish mass. Mix until smooth.
5. Make neat round cakes in the form of cutlets. Put the filling on one of them and cover it with another blank, carefully gluing the edges. The cutlet should look like a crescent.
6. Dip the pastry in the egg and roll in flour or breadcrumbs.
7. Fry in a well-heated pan for 6-7 minutes on each side.

You can just fry the cutlets a little and transfer them to the oven or double boiler. So they will turn out to be more dietary. Serve with ketchup or tomato sauce in a separate sauce.

If the dish is planned to be given to children, it is better to remove mushrooms from the list of ingredients.

Preparation of the body of fish with potato filling

Ingredients:

• fish fillet - 500 g;
• onion - 1 pc.;
• garlic - 2 cloves;
• eggs - 2 pcs.;
• flour - 2 tbsp. l.;
• water - 100 ml;
• potatoes - 4 pcs.;
• butter - a piece;

Cooking:

1. Cut the fillet into pieces and pass through a meat grinder. Chop the onion and garlic along with the fish.
2. Beat the eggs and add them to the fish mass. Pour flour, salt, pour in water there and knead until smooth. Then the minced meat must be beaten off, throwing it with force on the table for at least 15 minutes, so that it grabs, becomes dense and tender. Only then will the body turn out elastic and juicy.
3. Boil potatoes in salt water. Mash into a puree, adding butter. You should not replace the butter with milk or sour cream, as the puree will become very liquid and it will be difficult to form the filling from it. If desired, fried onions or chopped herbs can be added to the puree.
4. Spread a small amount of minced meat on a wet palm and lay out the filling. Form a patty.
5. Fry in a pan.

Serve with vegetables.

Telnoe can be served as an independent dish, as it turns out to be hearty and nutritious.

Telnoye is interesting not only for its name, but also for its shape, in the form of crescents, although, in my opinion, this does not affect the taste, you can simply form ordinary cutlets. But, in my experience, a dish with history served at the family table is eaten with much more appetite and interest.

We need dried mushrooms. They need to be poured in hot water for 20 minutes in advance and left to swell. In season, you can take fresh mushrooms or cook stew with all-season oyster mushrooms or champignons.

Squeeze the soaked mushrooms well and chop finely.

Peel the onion and chop very finely.

Heat a frying pan, pour vegetable oil into it and fry the onion until golden brown. Add mushrooms to the onion, fry everything together a little and remove from heat. Salt and pepper. The filling for the body is ready.

Alternatively, you can make a filling of boiled chopped eggs with fried onions, it will also be tasty and the children will like it.

For minced meat, you need a fillet of white fish. I like cod fish cakes and for the body I chose fresh cod fillet. Pollock, hake, hake are also suitable.

The fillet must be passed through a meat grinder or chopped in a blender. Add an egg, 2 tablespoons of flour to the minced fish, salt and pepper the minced meat and mix thoroughly with a spoon, it should become a little viscous.

Pour a couple of tablespoons of flour on a large cutting board or work surface of the kitchen table and proceed to molding the body. It is convenient to moisten your hands with vegetable oil, then the minced meat will not stick.

We form a ball the size of an average tangerine from minced meat, make a recess in it with our thumb and put the mushroom filling there. Close up the edge and form a flat crescent-shaped cake.

Next time I will try a different way of shaping, make a cake, put the filling and fold it in half, form a crescent, according to the dumpling principle, I hope the edges do not come apart.

Thus, we form all the cutlets and roll them in flour. Melt the butter in a frying pan and fry the steak on each side for 4-5 minutes over low heat.

You can serve with any side dish suitable for fish cakes - mashed potatoes, buckwheat, green peas, pickles.

Columnist Olga Syutkina tells about the metamorphoses of one of the most ancient Russian recipes that survived until the 21st century

Speaking about Russian cuisine, we sometimes complain: that, they say, it has not changed since the times of Domostroy - all these cabbage soup, pancakes, pies. How can she keep up with the current time! That is why they forget her because she is behind the times.

There is, of course, some truth in these words. But it is hardly worth generalizing. We will try to tell you that our kitchen has not lagged behind in everything. And it is best to do this with a simple and concrete example.

“Eatable, put on underwear and went into the night”

Most of us got acquainted with this strange word "corporal" from the work of the authors of the "Golden Calf". Meanwhile, a hundred years ago, a dish with this name would not have raised questions from anyone.

In modern culinary literature, the same misconception often occurs. Many websites and books mention such dishes as “body pig”, “body duck”, referring to the carcass of an animal or bird stuffed with minced meat from their own meat. But this is already the “conquest” of the last epochs, which has a very indirect relation to the term “bodily”.

Body - it's fish

Historically, it is a purely fish dish. Here is how the Dictionary of Cooking, Henchmen, Candidates and Distillers (1795-1797) describes it.

Body. "Dictionary of cooking, henchmen, canditorial and distillatory" (1795-1797). There is also earlier information about this amazing dish. Pavel Aleppsky in the 17th century reports that "due to the abundance of fish in Russia, Muscovites prepared various fish dishes." For example, “all the bones are taken from the fish, they beat it in mortars until it becomes like dough, then they stuff it with onions and saffron, put it in wooden molds in the form of lambs and geese, fry it in vegetable oil on very deep baking sheets and cut it like pieces fat tail. Its taste is excellent: who does not know will take it for real lamb meat.

All these "corpulent" animals were served even on fasting days. We read in the text of “Domostroy”: “In Filippov fasting, the following are served at the table: loaves and piglets, ducklings…»

The beautiful, elegant appearance of the dish naturally translated it into the category of festive food, because name days, children's birthdays and anniversaries of reigns sometimes fell on fasting days.

French accent of a Russian dish

But time goes by and curious things begin to happen to the old body. Under the influence of the fashion for European cuisine, this dish of ours is beginning to change.

For example, already in the book “Lenten Cook” (1796) there is a “telny pie”, in which the fish “telny” minced meat is first fried, and then wrapped in minced meat from another fish and boiled in a napkin. Then the whole structure is sent to the furnace. Intricate, isn't it? A clear attempt to refine the historical recipe, to give it elegance.

Isn't it a little like the body described by Paul of Aleppo in the form of geese and piglets? Although... If in the 17th century, minced fish was stuffed into special wooden molds, now it is into “small pâtés” (dough molds). And then both are fried in oil. One can see a persistent desire to turn the traditional body into something like the newfangled at that time French pâtés.

But, of course, not only a slightly clumsy imitation of pate affected the evolution of this dish. Look, let's say, at the following text: is there a lot of intelligence and talent left in this skillful game from those very “calf piglets”? But this is just a "Cookery Calendar", published in 1808 in St. Petersburg:

Last transformations

And, finally, another trend that influenced the fate of the body is the simplification, democratization of the kitchen, caused by the increase in the urban middle class. It is clear that in a landowner's estate or even in a strong peasant economy, cooking in the old way was familiar.

And try to do all this in a city apartment on a stove or stove! This is where the thought comes up: to give up deep-frying in a huge pan and get by with a frying pan.

Actually, this process led to the modern understanding of the body as small cutlets, balls of minced fish fried in a pan.

However, even at the beginning of the 20th century, the recipe was more intricate: a combination of minced meat with pieces of fried fish was mandatory. It is this version that contains the classic textbook by Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva "Practical foundations of culinary art." Half a century later, crescent-shaped cutlets made from minced fish, which, ironically, will also be called telny, will enter the menu in Soviet canteens and restaurants.

Let's think about it: after all, the recipe that has passed through the centuries (and it really is hundreds of years old) body survived to this day! Yes, it has seriously changed, but these changes are mainly caused by the rejection of the rough, heavy component and adaptation to the changing conditions of the mass life of the population. And you say, "outdated Russian cuisine"!

Body made of fish

Prepare the filling. Finely chop the onion, fry in oil in a pan, add boiled and sliced ​​fresh or salted porcini mushrooms, stir, remove from heat, put chopped egg, parsley, salt, pepper and mix it all. From 500 g of fish fillet, prepare minced meat, as for cutlets. Make round cakes the size of a cutlet out of it. Place a walnut-sized filling on one half of the cake, cover with the other half and glue the edges in the shape of a crescent. Body is more convenient to cut on a napkin or gauze soaked in water. After that, moisten the body with a beaten egg and roll in breadcrumbs. 10-15 minutes before serving, fry the meat in the same way as fish cutlets, and give the same side dish. Separately, in a gravy boat, serve tomato sauce.

A book about tasty and healthy food. 8th edition, revised and enlarged. - M.: Agropromizdat. L. M. Bogatova. 1987 .

See what "Fish body" is in other dictionaries:

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From a detailed review of the nutritional composition of my menu, it is clear enough that there are practically no foods that I would deliberately discriminate against and exclude completely from my diet. Even cocoa, chocolate, eggs,… … The Great Encyclopedia of Culinary Arts

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