home » For garden » Do-it-yourself machine for the production of tiles. Pledge of an excellent roof - reliable equipment for the production of ceramic tiles

Do-it-yourself machine for the production of tiles. Pledge of an excellent roof - reliable equipment for the production of ceramic tiles

It's amazing how life changes. Much of what we now habitually buy ready-made in stores, 100 years ago, people did it with their own hands: they ground flour, baked bread, spun, wove, etc. They also built houses on their own, including building materials: they sawed wood, made boards and bricks, and burned lime.

But even in periods closer to our time, people were forced to return to economic "self-service", recalling old-fashioned methods and technologies. They were forced to do this either by the post-war devastation and the accompanying commodity hunger, or by being abandoned to the mercy of fate by the authorities. From those times, not only objects made by the hands of our grandfathers or houses built by them remained, but also a mass of literature devoted to the handicraft production of a wide variety of goods.

It is very interesting to hold such books and pamphlets, usually published in the 1920s or 1940s, in your hands. And this interest is not only historical. The fact is that the traditional technologies, to which these manuals are devoted, are of interest today due to the fact that they were based on the use of mainly local natural materials - environmentally friendly and cost-effective. And this is a reason to become interested in them for people who are tired of the dirt of modern production and constantly rising prices in the construction markets.

The book of this kind also includes the pamphlet of the engineer A. Skachkov "Fireproof roof made of clay tiles", published in 1925 in the series "Insurance Library of the Peasant". It tells in detail how to make clay tiles with your own hands. We provide an abbreviated description of this technology.

Video: production and installation of ceramic tiles

Clay selection and preparation

But even very oily or very thin clay can be adapted for tiles. To reduce the fat content, fine clean sand or finely crushed bricks, pots, and tiles should be added to the clay. If the clay is too thin, then sand can be washed out of it.

There are many easy ways to find out the suitability of clay for tiles.

Here are some of them.

A crumpled lump of clay, thrown with force on the floor, should flatten like dough, without cracks, into a cake, and not crumble into separate pieces.
When rubbing the clay between the fingers, no sand should be felt.
Well kneaded clay should easily accept and retain all forms that are given to it (should be plastic).

But the most reliable way to find out the suitability of clay is to make several trial tiles from it. With good clay, the finished tile has an even red color, there are no cracks or distortions on it, when it is struck, it emits a clear metallic ring, and when lowered into water, it does not greatly increase its weight. In addition, being placed on two bars, it should freely withstand a person standing on it, have a light vitreous coating on the surface, and be of the same color and without bubbles at the break. It would be good if, during drying and firing, the size of the tiles would decrease by no more than 5%.

After selecting and harvesting clay, it must be prepared for further processing. For tiles, clay is harvested at any time of the year, but it must definitely overwinter. Clay taken out of the soil is piled on the surface of the earth in the form of long ridges 1.5-2 m wide and 0.7 m high at any length. These ridges are called stacks. In them, from the autumn rains, the clay thoroughly gets wet, during severe frosts it freezes, and in the spring it thaws again. As a result of these processes, clay acquires qualities that facilitate its processing.

To make the clay freeze better, the stacks are mixed from time to time and filled with water. The longer the clay is refrozen, the better it becomes. You can freeze it for several winters. Frozen clay is soaked before processing and after 2-3 days they begin to knead. It is best to do this in a pug mill, although you can knead the clay with your feet.

A pug grinder can be made from a large wooden barrel or from thick boards in the form of a box. Inside this box, an iron or wooden (oak) axle is inserted, on which iron knives are screwed. When the axis rotates, the clay thrown from above is cut by knives and directed downwards, towards the hole, just as it happens with meat in a meat grinder.

In order for the clay to mix better, sometimes additional fixed knives are placed on the sides of the pug mill itself. A carrier is attached to the top of the axle, into which oxen or horses are harnessed and driven in a circle. It is better to mix the clay twice. The wooden pug mill is about 1.5 m high, 1.06 m wide at the top, and 0.89 m at the bottom. The iron axle is 2.8 m high, and the length of the knives is 0.35-0.45 m with a blade width of 10 cm and a thickness of 3 cm. The carrier is made 8.5 m long. With one horse, two or three workers can knead about 15 m3 of clay in 8 hours.

Tile molding

The easiest way to mold a flat tile. For its manufacture, it is necessary to have a wooden or iron molding frame with a handle. The internal dimensions of the frame are 33x21 cm with a thickness slightly larger than 2.5 cm.

A plank (movable bottom) is attached to the frame, which must exactly pass through the frame and be 1.25 cm thick, and have a cutout for the spike at the top.

Making a flat tile is simple. A frame is placed on the desktop, and a plate with a cutout is placed in it, and all this is lightly sprinkled with dry sand or ash. Nearby on the table it is necessary to put a large lump of crumpled clay and give it the shape of a cube. Then, several layers 2 cm thick are cut with a bow with a string of thin steel wire. This is easy to do in a "formwork" of wooden bars 2 cm thick. After forming the cube, the upper bars on each side must be removed and cut the layer, leading the bow along the bars. After that, you need to remove the next row of bars and repeat everything.

When molding tiles, it is necessary to cut layers of such a size that they fill the entire frame, since the addition of clay is harmful and, after firing, lags behind the tiles. The molding of Tatar (Roman) or Dutch (grooved) tiles is also described in A. Skachkov's book. This process is somewhat more complicated, but, as experience shows, any person masters this technology in a day or two. In a day, one worker can mold from 500 blanks.

For roof ridges, a special tile is prepared, which is called ridge.

Drying tiles

Proper drying of shingles is of great importance. Rapid and uneven drying can warp and crack tiles, so drying should be slow and even across the entire surface of the tiles.

The damper the clay was during molding, the easier water comes out of it during drying, and vice versa - the steeper the clay was mixed, the slower the tile dries. This may cause more cracks.

Drying tiles is very harmful effect of the sun and wind. Therefore, it is better to dry the tiles indoors or under a canopy. In a small production, tiles are placed on temporary shelves made of boards and bricks instead of stands. Such shelves are easy to disassemble and fold, and they do not require any racks or nails in the construction. In case of rain or strong sun, the tiles are covered with matting or straw mats. Drying time in summer averages 10 days,

Roof tiles firing

Firing is the most crucial moment in the production of tiles. Proper firing depends on fuel, kiln design, skill of the worker (kilner) and many other factors.

Tiles are fired in special kilns, the simplest of which are batch kilns.

The furnace is divided into four main compartments: the firebox, the ash pan, the firing chamber and the chimney. The internal dimensions of such a furnace are impressive: 2 m wide and 4 m long. The firebox is 1 m long. A wall with holes is installed behind it, separating the firebox from the firing chamber. After the firing chamber is loaded with tiles, a temporary wall with holes is laid out in the back of the chamber. In some furnaces, they do not do it. The height of the pipe for such a furnace is not very large - about 4.5 m. The dimensions of the pipe at the bottom are 70x80 cm, and at the very top - 40x53 cm. A valve is installed in the pipe to increase or decrease thrust. Cover the oven with a vault.

At the back of the oven there is a large opening for loading and unloading tiles. During firing, this hole is laid with bricks on clay mortar and covered with sand to reduce heat loss. Sometimes a small door is left here to monitor the progress of firing and take samples.

It is best to lay the tiles in the furnace in separate tiers, starting from the wall closest to the furnace and bringing them across the entire width of the furnace to the very top. At the end of the loading of one tier, another is placed, and so on, until the entire furnace is loaded.

After that, the firing starts. It should be carried out to such an extent that the tiles come out slightly vitrified over the entire surface. Vitrification begins to appear when the tiles are slightly burned and the clay on the surface is sintered. In any case, it is better to burn the tiles a little than not to burn them. Tiling finish. Not always the tile turns out an even color. To remove the variegation, give the tile a more attractive appearance and improve its quality, the tile is subjected to various treatments. One of them is glazing. Glaze is a special glassy layer that covers the surface of the tile during firing. The icing comes in a variety of colors, but the cheapest and most common colors are brown and tan. Glaze gives the tile a beautiful look and makes it stronger than unglazed tiles. However, glazing doubles the cost of shingles, which limits the use of this finish.

A more acceptable finish is engobing, that is, applying glaze to the tiles. Watering is made from a special red, completely pure fatty clay, which is first dried and ground, then diluted with water like thick milk and filtered through a fine sieve. Before firing, the dried tiles are dipped into this clay solution and re-placed on the drying shelves. When the tile dries again, it is loaded into the kiln and fired. After firing, the surface of the tile comes out all of an even red color. Watering improves the quality of tiles and increases their service life.

The steeper the slope of the roof, the better it is, since the snow will not linger on it, and the rain will quickly drain. But this rule is true only for certain climatic conditions (sloping low roofs, for example, are acceptable in southern hot areas) and the tiles used.

With flat tiles, the roof must have a rise of at least half the width of the building. The purlins under it are nailed according to the size of the tile, so that it is hooked with a spike at the top, lies on the lower bar and descends no more than 6 cm below it. Flat tiles are covered either in one layer or in two.

A more durable and dense roof is obtained in two layers. But such a roof is heavier - about 200 tiles go per 1 m2, which weigh about 100 kg (with a single-layer laying - half as much).

Denis Gudkov, specially for the site
rosproizvodstvo.ru, fromzlatoust.ru, arkom-tula.ru

H tile is one of the oldest roofing materials still in use today. Roofs made of tiles are distinguished by strength, reliability, durability, beauty and sophistication. Modern tiles can be made of various materials, which determines its technical characteristics, the possibility of using it for certain purposes and the cost.

Distinguish:

metal tile(galvanized steel coated with polymeric material),
soft tiles(bitumen tiles, fiberglass impregnated with modified bitumen),
ceramic tiles(natural, made of clay),
cement-sand tiles(made from cement and washed sand with the addition of metal oxides),
composite tiles(steel coated with aluzinc and outside with acrylic primer with natural stone granules),
polymer-sand roof tiles(sand, polymeric materials).

According to statistics, today in Europe and America, natural tiles in new construction and repair occupy a leading position - 86%, of which 67% are cement-sand, and 19% are ceramic, 3% are metal tiles, and 11% are other roofing materials. In the Russian market, the consumption of natural roofing materials (ceramic and cement-sand tiles) has been increasing every year by 30% since 1998.

Tiled roofs have high soundproofing properties (they absorb the sound of rain, hail), they do not burn, do not accumulate static electricity, do not emit harmful or strong-smelling fumes. In addition, they are distinguished by exceptional durability (up to 100 years). Cement-sand tile is currently the most popular roofing material, since its production is less expensive, and in terms of technical characteristics it is not inferior, but even superior to ceramic.

Contemporary production of cement-sand tiles is based on the following technology: preparation of a mixture of cement and filler (sand), molding tiles from the resulting mixture by rolling or using vibropresses on special pallets at specified parameters, followed by curing of the finished product in curing chambers at constant temperature and humidity.

Equipment for the production of cement-sand tiles is offered by various manufacturers both in Russia and abroad. For example, Stroytekhnika Plant LLC(Zlatoust, Russia) manufactures a complete set of equipment ( line "Rifey"), intended for the production of tiles using vibropresses. The kit includes:

molding machine for the production of slotted tiles,
ridge tile forming machine,
mixing mixer with a volume of 100 liters,
pumping unit to drive the molding machine,
lodgment,
pallets for molding and curing tiles.

The declared capacity of this line is 500 pieces (50 m2) of ordinary tiles per shift and 50 pieces (19 m) of ridge tiles at an installed power of 17.4 kW and a pressure in the hydraulic system of 50 kg/cm2. The size of the resulting products is 420x330 mm, weight - 4.5 kg. The size of the production site required for the operation of the equipment is 8x8.5 m.

Another manufacturer of rolling equipment for the production of cement-sand tiles is LLC "South Ural Industrial Company"(Orsk, Russia). The line includes:

installation of TsCH-P, intended for the formation of slotted tiles,
CHR-K for the formation of ridge tiles,
mixer,
steam chambers.

The declared capacity of this line is 800 pieces (53 m2) of slotted tiles with an installed power of not more than 5 kW. Service staff - 3-4 people. The resulting products comply with TU-21-0284757-6-91 and have a size of 400x240x12 mm. For the manufacture of 1 m2 of tiles, it is necessary to spend 11.5 kg of cement, 23 kg of sand, 4.5 liters of water, 200-400 g of coloring pigment.

It should be noted that the application rolling forming method products can significantly improve the performance of the equipment. So, the lines developed JSC "VNIISTROM" them. P.P. Budnikova(Kraskovo village, Moscow region), operating on the basis of rolling technology, have a capacity of 3600 - 4000 pieces (240 - 300 m2) per shift with 6 - 8 service personnel and an installed capacity of 20 kW. The resulting products have a size of 400x240x12 mm, withstand a breaking load of up to 80 kg. Frost resistance of products - up to 50 cycles.

Foreign companies, mostly German manufacturers of roofing materials ERLUS AG, CREATON AG, Wienerberger, Dachkeramik Meyer-Holsen, Nelskamp, Braas(ceramic or cement-sand tiles), as a rule, use their own equipment and technological solutions. Without exaggeration, the world leader in the production of tiles can be called Braas(Germany), which owns more than 224 tile factories in the world. Since 1996, a joint Russian-German enterprise LLC BRAAS DSK-1 has been operating in Moscow for the production of Frankfurt cement-sand tiles. Products are manufactured in accordance with TU 5756-001-4154053-98 by conveyor rolling. The resulting products have a size of 420x330x24-31 mm, weight 4.5 kg.

Currently, polymer-sand tiles are gaining popularity, for the production of which secondary polymer raw materials can be used in the proportion of 40-50% polyethylene and 50-60% polypropylene, polystyrene, etc. Approximately in this ratio, waste is in landfills. The consumption of materials for the production of 1 m2 of such products is as follows: 5.2 kg of plastic, 15.8 kg of sand, 100 - 150 g of dye. According to the declared technical characteristics, this material even surpasses traditional ones:

water absorption ~ 0.3% (for cement-sand ~ 6%),
application temperature range - from -65 to +1000С,
combustibility - group G2,
mechanical loads up to 350 kg/cm2 (axial compression) and up to 135 kg/cm2 (bending).

The weight of such a product is 2 times less than cement-sand analogues, and the service life can reach 50 years. Equipment for the production of polymer-sand tiles is produced Detail-project company(Tver), Polymer-Technology LLC(Orsk). Package Included:

polymer crusher PT 2003.00.000(plastic shredding, capacity 900 kg/h),
extrusion machine PT 2004.00.000(polymer regeneration, capacity 85 kg/h),
APT-FRI 2002.00.000(mass preparation for molding, productivity 250 kg/h), molding unit PT 2001.00.000(forming products from a polymer-sand mixture).

The polymer-sand mixture ready for molding has a temperature of 150 - 1800C, it is the responsibility of the operator of this line to separate the required amount for further molding into the finished product. The productivity of the entire line reaches 35 m2 per shift, the staff is 2-5 people.

Nevertheless, despite the many advantages of polymer-sand materials over traditional ones, it is obvious that their quality and individual characteristics will directly depend on the composition of the secondary polymer raw materials used for production. In this regard, the use of such materials requires more stringent quality control.

Ceramic tiles are a reliable, beautiful and durable material widely used in European and Asian countries. The tile is super durable, its service life is more than 100 years. Making clay tiles is a process that has remained unchanged for centuries, especially when it comes to manual production. Industrial production has become more technological over time.

Ceramic tiles, no matter how the manufacturers assured, along with significant advantages, have a number of disadvantages. When choosing this building material, it is important to know them in advance!

pros

Long service life over 100 years.

The coating may need to be repaired only after 20 years of use.

Due to the properties of clay, the coating has high thermal and sound insulation properties. In summer it will be cool in the house, in winter it will be warm.

Beautiful appearance.

Strength.

Fire resistance.

The tile does not emit harmful substances.

Minuses

Significant weight

Important: when choosing this material for your roof, you need to know that 1 sq.m of coating weighs from 50 to 70 kg. Ceramic tiles are not suitable for a light structure!

The need to involve professional specialists in laying the roof.

Making shingles at home

The production of ceramic tiles at home begins with the selection of quality clay. The strength of the future coating depends on the raw material. Clay should be non-greasy, not overly sandy, soft, viscous and clean.

Important: if greasy clay is used, then after drying the coating will immediately crack and lose its shape!

After choosing the clay, it is time to prepare it for production. In whatever period the clay is mined, it must definitely overwinter. Clay ridges are piled on the surface of the earth: in autumn water accumulates in them, in winter it freezes, and in spring it thaws. So clay will acquire the qualities of strength necessary for the production of tiles.

Important: you can freeze for several winters.

Qualitatively frozen clay is soaked, and after a few days they begin to knead. At this stage, you can use a special pug mill, but you can knead with your feet. Forms are filled with prepared raw materials. After the tile has acquired the desired shape, the frame is removed and the tile is dried. Making tiles with your own hands is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge.

Industrial production differs from manual production in the use of higher quality clay and a more technological process. In the factory, a coating of different shapes and colors is made. The production of ceramic tiles consists of:

Important: most often, factories have their own quarries, from which excavators extract clay from deep layers, the highest quality and cleanest.

Clay is aged on open ground, then it is broken up with mechanical equipment, mixed with water and plasticizers (to make it more elastic).

Formation of tiles. For the production of the pressed type of tiles, a revolving press is used, the equipment, using a gypsum stamp, gives the clay plates the necessary shape.

Drying. Finished ceramic tiles are dried for at least 48 hours.

Application of protective layers: glaze or engobe is applied. Glazing is a layer of glass that will protect the coating from fading, give it shine and increase strength. Engobing will make the surface matte.

Important: engobe is a coating that cannot be applied to fired tiles!

Firing at a temperature of 1000 °C.

One of the most important stages in the production of ceramic tiles, available only in industrial conditions. Occurs with a gradual increase in temperature. First, all physical water is removed from the clay, the coating becomes non-plastic (120°C). Next, the clay passes into an amorphous state (500°C to 650°C). Then ceramic tiles become more durable (800°C). At a temperature of 1000 ° C, a kind of melt is created, which, as it were, envelops the tile, compacting the entire mass into a single whole.

Important: firing is an energy-intensive process and expensive. The tile that has passed through it becomes an elite class of roofing and has the highest qualities of strength.

Video about the production of ceramic tiles

Since ancient times, during the construction of a personal bath on the site, the material for roofing its roof was made by hand. Moreover, only environmentally friendly and cost-effective materials, such as clay, were used. That is why today, in the technogenic age, where even in the process of building houses almost nothing natural is used anymore, ceramic tiles as a roofing material have become again in demand and popular. Moreover, clay tiles for the roof of your bath can be made without the help of specialists - as in the old fashioned way.

Ceramic tile has gained its popularity due to the naturalness of its material.

I stage. Clay selection

The quality of the clay directly affects how durable and aesthetic ceramic tiles will be. It is best to take the clay that is usually used to make pots: not greasy, but not too sandy. Because natural tiles from too oily clay will warp and crack when dried, and from lean clay they will intensively absorb moisture and do not tolerate frost well. Clay should be viscous, soft and clean. Here's how you can determine its quality:

Method 1. Crush the lump of clay and throw it with force on the floor. It should flatten out like dough, into a cake - without cracks and without crumbling pieces.
Method 2. Rub the clay between your fingers - sand should not be felt.
Method 3. Knead the clay and try to mold it into shapes. It must be plastic.

And for even greater reliability, one ceramic tile is made from the selected clay - for testing. If the clay was suitable, then:

the color will be even, red;
the surface will have an even glassy coating, without any distortions or cracks;
high-quality ceramic tiles lowered into the water should not increase much in weight;
when hitting the tiles, a clear metallic ringing will be heard;
the finished ceramic tile laid on two bars should easily withstand an adult standing on it;
the total volume of one tile during firing did not decrease by more than 5%;
at the break, a good ceramic tile will be the same color without bubbles.

II stage. Clay preparation

Clay for tiles should be constantly mixed, as well as filled with water.

Once a good clay is selected, it can begin to be prepared for processing. Usually clay is harvested for tiles at any time of the year, but it still has to overwinter.

So, the clay taken out of the ground must be folded on the surface of the soil in the form of ridges 2 m wide and 70 cm high. Such ridges are usually called stacks. This is how the clay will have to lie until warm - in the fall it will get wet from the rains, freeze in the winter, and thaw in the spring. After all this, it will be much easier to process it. And in order for the clay to freeze better, it is advisable to periodically mix the stacks and even fill them with water. After all, the longer it freezes, the better. Even if the clay lies like this for several years, it will only benefit it.

III stage. Clay preparation for processing

Before processing, the frozen clay must be soaked, and after two or three days it will be possible to start kneading. To do this, there is a pug grinder, which you can make yourself from a wooden barrel or thick boards in the form of a box. It is necessary to insert a wooden or iron axle inside the pug mill, and iron knives are screwed onto it in a helical way. The mechanism is similar to twisting meat in a meat grinder. And for better mixing, you can put additional knives on the sides of the pug mill. It is better to mix the clay itself at least twice.

IV stage. Shaping the shingles

The easiest way to make a flat ceramic tile for roofing. To do this, you need a wooden or iron molding frame with a handle with dimensions of 33x21 cm, and a little more than 2.5 cm thick. A plank will be attached to the frame as a movable bottom, which will pass exactly through the frame and be 1.25 cm thick, and also at the top to have a cutout for the spike.

So, a frame is placed on the desktop, and a plate with a cutout is placed in it. All this is sprinkled with ash or dry sand. A large lump of already crumpled clay is placed on the table nearby and it is shaped into a cube. Next, several layers with a thickness of 2 cm are cut with a stretched thin steel wire.

Now one layer of clay is taken, placed in a frame and strongly compressed where the tile should have a spike. Then a lump of clay is added and a rolling pin soaked in water (so that it does not stick) is cleaned off the excess clay from the frame itself. After all this, the frame must be carefully removed, and the ceramic tile itself is covered with a drying board. Next, you need to turn it over and remove the board. And that's all - the tiles can be taken to the drying shelves. The main thing is that when forming the tile, the layer should be cut so that the frame is completely filled, because after firing the added clay will lag behind.

Forming Roman or Dutch tiles is a little more difficult, but this technology can be mastered without any experience. There is even a statistic that only one worker is able to make such 500 blanks per day.

But installation of natural tiles has its own characteristics. So, for the ridges of the roof, a special ceramic tile, called ridge, is being prepared.

V stage. Drying clay tiles

The formed ceramic tiles should dry well - slowly and evenly over the entire surface, otherwise cracks cannot be avoided. And the drying time depends on how cool the clay was mixed - the damper it was, the faster the water will come out.

Clay for tiles should dry thoroughly and evenly.

Drying tiles can only be indoors, or at least under a canopy. To do this, you need to make temporary shelves or bricks as coasters in advance. And it will take 10 days to dry.

VI stage. Treatment

Burnt natural tiles do not always turn out to be perfectly even in color, and therefore they are often pre-treated with additional processing. Basically it is glazing. The tile is covered with a special vitreous layer, which makes it more beautiful. But this is quite an expensive pleasure, and therefore more often irrigation is applied to the tiles, which is made from pure red oily clay. It is first dried and ground, and then diluted with water like thick milk. Before the firing itself, the clay is dipped into such a solution and again placed on the drying rack. After firing, the tile turns out to be even red in color, with improved qualities and an extended service life.

VII stage. Burning

Firing is the most crucial moment in the production of tiles. Tiles need to be fired in special ovens, which are called batch ovens. These can be seen in old Dutch villages, and it is quite possible to design something similar according to a similar scheme on your site, however, of a smaller size.

So, a tile kiln consists of four sections - a furnace, an ash pan, a firing chamber and a pipe. A wall with holes is installed behind the firebox, which separates it from the firing chamber. Once the chamber is fully loaded with shingles, a temporary perforated wall will be laid out at the back of the chamber. Also, in such a furnace, a special valve is installed to reduce or increase traction, and the furnace itself is covered with a vault.

By the way, behind such a furnace there is always a larger opening for unloading and loading tiles. And at the time of firing, it is laid with bricks or covered with sand - to reduce heat loss. But they always leave a small door - to monitor the firing process and take samples.

The tile itself can be laid for firing in different ways: vertically if it is a Dutch or Tatar tile, and sideways on an edge if it is flat. But any tile should stand upright, at a small distance from each other and without any slope. So that it does not bend over, you can jam it with pieces of broken and already burned.

It is necessary to fire the tile to such an extent until it becomes slightly vitrified on its surface. In general, vitrification is a sign of burnt tiles, but it is better to overexpose it in the fire than underbake it. Usually, the longer the tile lasts in the stove, the stronger it is. And installation of ceramic tiles with burnout - a guarantee of special strength and durability of the roof. But without fanaticism - it is quite possible to completely burn the clay.

VIII stage. Sorting

The steeper the slope of the roof, the better for the tiles.

After the tile has cooled, it is unloaded from the oven and sorted. So, for the roof, all of it should be straight, sonorous, without cracks and evenly colored. And the rest of the tiles can be safely used to cover the canopies. Shingles should be stored under a canopy, with good protection from snow and rain. And the bottom rows should not lie on the ground, but on the boards.

All tiled roofs are durable, easy to maintain and very beautiful. Yes and installation of ceramic tiles is not difficult even for a novice builder - everything is extremely simple. The steeper the slope, the better for the tile itself - the snow will linger on it less. But in hot areas, tiles can also be used to cover sloping roofs.

How to make wooden tiles yourself step by step? What kind of wood to use? What to soak? What tools will be needed for the job?

wooden tiles have their own name = Gonta

thirty years ago in western Belarus there were gontarezki (not large workshops for the production of wooden tiles)

But any new type of roofing is more durable than shingles with less thorough maintenance, and it was replaced by slate and roofing material in rural sheds and huts.

Gonta today mostly remains either as a decorative coating or in museums of architecture.

They make shingles from larch, oak, ash. But, since such species are not available in every region, other tree species are used instead. For example, aspen or resinous pines.

For the manufacture of shingles, the "vіdzemok" butt part of the trunk (from the root to the first branch) is used, there is most resin, less moisture and no knots, and the butt part of the trunk is the most even. Wood is taken from winter felling. Handicraft shingle is sometimes made using "mahal"

But in most cases, in the production of shingles, first cut (in the same length) blocks of wood are pre-dried and subsequently pricked with a wide cleaver, which is beaten with a mallet.

for the durability of wooden roofs, as a rule, the roof angle is made sharp enough

Then, when using high-quality wood, the service life of such a roof is 50 years or more.

GONTA one of the most environmentally friendly materials that used to be used and is sometimes used along with clay tiles for roofing.

It is made from wooden chocks. In Siberia, shingles are made from larch and aspen, and also from aspen, it is also made from pine. The most expensive is from larch, it is very durable.

How to make a shingle - first of all, they make the chocks of the butt of the trunk to the first knots, the chocks are made in the winter when there is no sap flow, then the chocks are dried.

After that, they are manually pricked with special sharp cleavers.
or a special gontorezny machine:

The sizes of shingles can be different:

In fact, wooden tiles are nothing more than small pieces of board laid in a certain way on the roof through the slats ...

So the easiest way to make wooden tiles is to simply cut the board into pieces of the same size. You need one tool and a saw ...

As a rule, wooden tiles are made from the following types of wood:

larch;
pine;
cedar;
cypress

Tiles can be impregnated with drying oil, and varnished for outdoor use in several layers on top ...

It is necessary to lay wooden tiles in the so-called three-layer laying, this is when the tiles have more than 3 layers and the joints do not match with each other ...

It's simple. You need to use a chain saw and aspen. Aspen is sawn into boards and cut into planks. Alternatively, aspen chocks can be pricked with an ax. You can also use high quality pine. It can be used not only for roofing, but also for exterior wall cladding.

How to make clay tiles yourself, a pug grinder and proper firing

It's amazing how life changes. Much of what we now habitually buy in stores ready-made, 100 years ago people did it with their own hands: they ground flour, baked bread, spun, wove, etc. They also built houses on their own, harvesting, including building materials: sawing wood, making boards and bricks, burning lime.
But even in periods closer to our time, people were forced to return to economic "self-service", recalling old-fashioned methods and technologies. They were forced to do this either by the post-war devastation and the accompanying commodity hunger, or by being abandoned to the mercy of fate by the authorities. From those times, not only objects made by the hands of our grandfathers or houses built by them remained, but also a mass of literature devoted to the handicraft production of a wide variety of goods.
It is very interesting to hold such books and pamphlets, usually published in the 1920s or 1940s, in your hands. And this interest is not only historical. The fact is that the traditional technologies to which these manuals are devoted are of interest today due to the fact that they were based on the use of mainly local natural materials - environmentally friendly and cost-effective. And this is a reason to become interested in them for people who are tired of the dirt of modern production and constantly rising prices in the construction markets.
The booklet of the engineer A. Skachkov "Fireproof Roof of Clay Tiles", published in 1925 in the series "Insurance Library of a Peasant", also belongs to books of this kind. It tells in detail how to make clay tiles with your own hands. We provide an abbreviated description of this technology.

Clay selection and preparation

The quality of clay for tiles has always been of great importance. The best clay is the one from which the pots are made, not greasy or sandy, but medium. It should be clean, soft and viscous. Tiles made of very greasy clay warp and crack when dried, and lean clay turns out to be very weak, strongly absorbing water and frost-resistant.
But even very oily or very lean clay can be adapted for tiles. To reduce the fat content, fine clean sand or finely crushed bricks, pots, and tiles should be added to the clay. If the clay is too thin, then sand can be washed out of it.

There are many easy ways to find out the suitability of clay for tiles, here are some of them:

A crumpled lump of clay, thrown with force on the floor, should flatten like dough, without cracks, into a cake, and not crumble into separate pieces.
When rubbing the clay between the fingers, no sand should be felt.
Well kneaded clay should easily accept and retain all forms that are given to it (should be plastic).

Sand cement tiles - installation features

Clay taken out of the soil is piled on the surface of the earth in the form of long ridges 1.5-2 m wide and 0.7 m high, at any length. These ridges are called stacks. In them, from the autumn rains, the clay thoroughly gets wet, during severe frosts it freezes, and in the spring it thaws again. As a result of these processes, clay acquires qualities that facilitate its processing.
To make the clay freeze better, the stacks are mixed from time to time and filled with water. The longer the clay is refrozen, the better it becomes. You can freeze it for several winters. Frozen clay is soaked before processing and after 2-3 days they begin to knead. It is best to do this in a pug mill, although you can knead the clay with your feet.
A pug grinder can be made from a large wooden barrel or from thick boards in the form of a box. Inside this box, an iron or wooden (oak) axle is inserted, on which iron knives are screwed. When the axis rotates, the clay thrown from above is cut by knives and directed downwards, towards the hole, just as it happens with meat in a meat grinder.
In order for the clay to mix better, sometimes additional fixed knives are placed on the sides of the pug mill itself. A carrier is attached to the top of the axle, into which oxen or horses are harnessed and driven in a circle. It is better to mix the clay twice. The wooden pug mill is about 1.5 m high, 1.06 m wide at the top, and 0.89 m at the bottom. The iron axle is 2.8 m high, and the length of the knives is 0.35-0.45 m with a blade width of 10 cm and a thickness of 3 cm. The carrier is made 8.5 m long. With one horse, two or three workers can knead about 15 m 3 of clay in 8 hours.

Tile molding

The easiest way to mold a flat tile. For its manufacture, it is necessary to have a wooden or iron molding frame with a handle. The internal dimensions of the frame are 33 × 21 cm with a thickness slightly greater than 2.5 cm.

A plank (movable bottom) is attached to the frame, which must exactly pass through the frame and be 1.25 cm thick, and have a cutout for the spike at the top.
Making a flat tile is simple. A frame is placed on the desktop, and a plate with a cutout is placed in it, and all this is lightly sprinkled with dry sand or ash. Nearby on the table it is necessary to put a large lump of crumpled clay and give it the shape of a cube. Then, several layers 2 cm thick are cut with a bow with a string of thin steel wire. This is easy to do in a "formwork" of wooden bars 2 cm thick. After forming the cube, the upper bars on each side must be removed and cut the layer, leading the bow along the bars. After that, you need to remove the next row of bars and repeat everything.

After that, they take one layer of clay and put it in a frame, press hard in the place where the spike should be, and then add a lump of clay here. After that, they take a rolling pin, wash it in a tub of water so that clay does not stick to it, and clean off the excess clay from the frame, after which the frame is carefully removed. A drying frame is placed on top of the tiles, they are turned over and, having removed the plank, the tiles are taken to the drying shelves.
When molding tiles, it is necessary to cut layers of such a size that they fill the entire frame, since the addition of clay is harmful and, after firing, lags behind the tiles. The molding of Tatar (Roman) or Dutch (grooved) tiles is also described in the book by A. Skachkov. This process is somewhat more complicated, but, as experience shows, any person masters this technology in a day or two. In a day, one worker can mold from 500 blanks.
For roof ridges, a special tile is prepared, which is called ridge.

Drying tiles

Proper drying of shingles is of great importance. Rapid and uneven drying can warp and crack tiles, so drying should be slow and even across the entire surface of the tiles.

The damper the clay was during molding, the easier water comes out of it during drying and vice versa - the steeper the clay was mixed, the slower the tile dries. This may cause more cracks.
Drying tiles is very harmful effect of the sun and wind. Therefore, it is better to dry the tiles indoors or under a canopy. In a small production, tiles are placed on temporary shelves made of boards and bricks instead of stands. Such shelves are easy to disassemble and fold, and they do not require any racks or nails in the construction. In case of rain or strong sun, the tiles are covered with matting or straw mats. Drying time in summer averages 10 days,

Roof tiles firing

Firing is the most critical moment in the production of tiles. Proper firing depends on fuel, kiln design, skill of the worker (kilner) and many other factors.
Tiles are fired in special kilns, the simplest of which are batch kilns.

The furnace is divided into four main compartments: the firebox, the ash pan, the firing chamber and the chimney. The internal dimensions of such a furnace are impressive: 2 m wide and 4 m long. The firebox is 1 m long. A wall with holes is installed behind it, separating the firebox from the firing chamber. After the firing chamber is loaded with tiles, a temporary wall with holes is laid out in the back of the chamber. In some furnaces, they do not do it. The height of the pipe for such a furnace is not very large - about 4.5 m. The dimensions of the pipe at the bottom are 70 × 80 cm, and at the very top - 40 × 53 cm. A valve is installed in the pipe to increase or decrease thrust . Cover the oven with a vault.
At the back of the oven there is a large opening for loading and unloading tiles. During firing, this hole is laid with bricks on clay mortar and covered with sand to reduce heat loss. Sometimes a small door is left here to monitor the progress of firing and take samples.

Different tiles are laid in the oven in different ways: Dutch and Tatar tiles are placed vertically, and flat tiles are placed sideways on a long edge. Tiles should stand vertically, without tilt, at a small distance from each other. So that it does not bend during firing in one direction or another, it is slightly wedged with broken fired tiles.
It is best to lay the tiles in the furnace in separate tiers, starting from the wall closest to the furnace and bringing them across the entire width of the furnace to the very top. At the end of the loading of one tier, another is placed, and so on, until the entire furnace is loaded.

In any case, it is better to burn the tiles a little than not to burn them. Tiling finish. Not always the tile turns out an even color. To remove the variegation, give the tile a more attractive appearance and improve its quality, the tile is subjected to various treatments. One of them is glazing. Glaze is a special glassy layer that covers the surface of the tile during firing. The icing comes in a variety of colors, but the cheapest and most common colors are brown and tan. Glaze gives the tile a beautiful look and makes it stronger than unglazed tiles. However, glazing doubles the cost of shingles, which limits the use of this finish.
A more acceptable finish is engobing, that is, applying glaze to the tiles. Watering is made from a special red, completely pure fatty clay, which is first dried and ground, then diluted with water like thick milk and filtered through a fine sieve. Before firing, the dried tiles are dipped into this clay solution and re-placed on the drying shelves. When the tile dries again, it is loaded into the kiln and fired. After firing, the surface of the tile comes out all of an even red color. Watering improves the quality of tiles and increases their service life.

When the tiles are fired and cooled down, they begin to unload them from the kiln and sort them. Tiles for the roof of houses should be straight, evenly colored, sonorous, without cracks and broken corners. The rest of the shingles can be used to cover sheds and temporary roofs. Finished tiles are best stored under a canopy, protected from rain and snow. The bottom rows must be placed not on the ground, but on the boards. Covering the roof with tiles. Tiled roofs are fire resistant, durable, do not require painting or repair, and are very beautiful.
The steeper the slope of the roof, the better it is, since the snow will not linger on it, and the rain will quickly drain. But this rule is true only for certain climatic conditions (sloping low roofs, for example, are acceptable in southern hot areas) and the tiles used.
With flat tiles, the roof must have a rise of at least half the width of the building. The purlins under it are nailed according to the size of the tile, so that it is hooked with a spike at the top, lies on the lower bar and descends no more than 6 cm below it. Flat tiles are covered either in one layer or in two.

The first method is simple, but the roof turns out to be loose and, so that rain does not fall into the gaps between the tiles, strips of tin are placed under these gaps. The width of the strips should be from 9 to 11 cm, and the length should be 4 cm shorter than the tiles. Skates are covered with ridge tiles on moss mixed with clay or lime mortar.
A more durable and dense roof is obtained in two layers. But such a roof is heavier - about 200 tiles go per 1 m 2, which weigh about 100 kg (with a single-layer laying - half as much).

1. Composition of cement-sand tiles

2. Advantages and disadvantages of the material

3. Features of the installation of sand-cement tiles

The choice of material for the roof is a very important and responsible process, of course, any developer knows about this. After all, it is this section of the house that must guarantee protection from any bad weather and other external influences to the entire structure. If you want to make a reliable, strong and durable roof, you can use a material such as sand-cement tiles. It is about its advantages and some disadvantages, technical characteristics, as well as the correct way of laying it, that will be discussed further.

How to make ceramic tiles with your own hands

Composition of cement-sand tiles

This roofing material, oddly enough, was widely used in the 19th century. But in view of the fact that it was not easy to create equipment for the production of cement-sand tiles at that time, and consumables were very expensive, only the aristocracy was honored to have a roof made of this material. Today, this coating is available to almost everyone, in addition, its composition has been greatly simplified, and the production process, on the contrary, has improved.

The creation of this tile does not have any difficulty. A cement-based solution is poured into pre-prepared forms, to which quartz sand is added. After the final drying of the mixture, special solutions are applied to the surface of the coating, giving the tile greater strength.

Due to the fact that firing, which is typical for ceramic tiles, is no longer used in the production process of this material, the price of cement-sand tiles is significantly lower.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

Starting the installation of cement-sand tiles, it is very important to know all the advantages and disadvantages that this material has.

The main advantages of such a tile are the following:

durability. Perhaps the main advantage that a roof made of cement sand tiles has, because its service life can reach 100 years;
affordable price of the material;
the ability to give a unique aesthetic appearance not only to the roof, but to the whole house as a whole;
resistance to any unpleasant weather conditions (precipitation, wind, etc.);
excellent sound, thermal and waterproofing characteristics;
fire resistance;
simplicity and ease of installation and further operation.

However, the installation of cement-sand tiles, the installation of which has so many positive indicators, is also characterized by some negative aspects, which include the following:

too much weight of cement-sand tiles requires mandatory reinforcement of the roof rafter system;
poor resistance to low temperatures;
excessive fragility;
tendency to the appearance of fungi and mold on the material;
large thickness and rather rough shape;
high installation cost;
the material has a limited set of sizes and shapes.

Knowing these characteristics of the coating, do-it-yourself cement-sand tiles can be laid more correctly in relation to a particular region, and the owners have the opportunity to decide whether they should equip their roof with this coating.

Features of installation of sand-cement tiles

Of course, the installation of this roofing, just like any other, has its own characteristics, characteristic of this particular material. So, asbestos-cement tiles should begin to be laid from the lower right pitched corner. Usually its device goes from the horizontal side of the overhang of the cornice up, towards the ridge.

What you need to know about sand-cement tiles, see the video:

It is no secret that a properly executed crate will give additional reliability and strength to the coating.

Roofing elements should be arranged on a frame, which is based on counter-rails. The distance at which they are located is primarily affected by both the size of the coating itself and the angle of the roof slope. A normal indicator of the step of the battens of the crate will be a distance equal to 31 - 34.5 centimeters.

It is necessary to fasten the coating to the crate with special hooks. The device of the tile is characterized by the fact that each of the rows in a peculiar way tightly presses the previous row against the crate, thus hiding the joints.

But there are also some additional details, the fastening of which must also be carried out to the roof frame. These include the following:

all structures located close to the ridge, valley, ridge, canopy;
parts located in the area of \u200b\u200bwindows and chimney pipes;
structures for which a separate load is provided, for example, those equipped with steps designed to climb to the roof itself. Read also: "Polymer sand tiles - advantages and disadvantages."

Do-it-yourself installation of ceramic tiles

Installation of ceramic tiles is a complex process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement of the roof truss structure. A ceramic tile weighs ten times more than a metal tile, since its base is clay. Any mistakes when laying roofing material can lead to serious problems, so it is better to entrust all work to professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then first read the installation instructions for ceramic tiles, given in this article.

Installation rules

Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will make your work easier:

Installation is carried out from right - to the left, from below - up
Before laying the slabs, they are lifted 5-6 pieces per roof and evenly distributed over it
Compared to a metal roof, a ceramic tile roof requires 15-20 percent reinforcement of the truss structure.
The optimal slope of the roof for the installation of ceramic tiles is 50 degrees. Minimum slope - 11 degrees
Lathing and counter-latticing step - 30 centimeters
It is better to deliver tiles to the construction site immediately before the start of work.
Transportation of ceramic tiles is carried out by trucks on pallets. The weight of one element is from 2 to 4 kilograms

Shingles calculation

Use the table to determine the number of tile tiles. Useful width and length - the dimensions of the tile. Measure the area of the roof and make the appropriate calculations.

Laying ceramic tiles

Installation instructions for ceramic tiles from different manufacturers look different. But the installation is approximately the same.

Before laying the first row on the lathing beam near the eaves, it is necessary to attach a protective seal against birds, and also install a drain into which water will drain from the roof.

Laying the first element

The installation of a ceramic tile roof starts from the right side of the roof. The first to be mounted are the extreme elements, which in appearance resemble a tong.

So, on top of the windshield, on the right side of the roof, install the last tile element between the battens. The protrusion behind the eaves is 10 cm. Fasten with wood screws, without screwing them to the end.

Next to the extreme element, put the second one, fixing it with a lock to the first one, or the crate, and also screw it with self-tapping screws. In the same way, lay all the elements of the first row and attach them to the crate.

Second row

In the second row, as a rule, elements with snow retainers are mounted.

When laying, always check its correctness. The tiles must be securely laid on the beams of the crate at one end, and at the other - fixed on the extreme protrusions of the elements of the previous row.

Between the first and last row (near the ridge), only every 5th tile can be fixed.

Every two or three rows, check the horizontal and vertical masonry.

Production of ceramic tiles

Verticality is checked with a thread that is stretched between the ridge and the drain.

To ensure free access under the roof of air during operation, special ventilation elements are mounted.

Skate decoration

To decorate the ridge, you need to install a carrier rail. This can be done using racks that are mounted to the junction of the rafters. The height of the lath is selected taking into account the model of the tile and the slope of the roof and is determined during installation.

The main thing is that between the ridge element and the roof there is a gap of 3 to 5 centimeters for ventilation.

Before installing the ridge elements, a waterproofing tape must be laid at the junction. It has a porous structure, allowing air to pass through.

Fastening the skates to the rail is done using fasteners. They are nailed into the rail from one end, and the other is bent on the ridge element, holding it. Only nails can be used. The design of the ridge ends with the installation of frontal elements.

Ceramic tiles look and install differently, so study the instructions in detail and carry out the necessary work.

Should you use ceramic tiles?

Many people have a question: “Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles at all?”. After all, it is difficult to install, and this process is laborious, because it is necessary to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.

Here are some of the benefits of ceramic tiles that make some homeowners use them as roofing material:

Ecological purity. Ceramic tiles are made from clay according to all requirements. Thanks to firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees, the material acquires a brown-red tint.
Duration of operation. Ceramic tiles can last up to 100 years! And there will be no corrosion. This material is durable and reliable, non-flammable and noise-absorbing.
Uniqueness. A roof covered with ceramic tiles is fundamentally different from others. But again, this is a matter of taste.
High resistance to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation
Easy to replace damaged roof sections

Disadvantages:

Big weight
High price
Difficulty of installation
Brittleness under high mechanical stress

To use ceramic tiles or not - the choice is yours. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, compare them with other roofing materials and make the right choice!

Video about the installation of ceramic tiles

Do-it-yourself clay tiles

Clay or ceramic tiles are one of the best roofing materials. which have been used in construction for a very, very long time.

Its advantageous advantage is a special installation system that avoids visible joints, as well as groove fasteners, which create a very good waterproofing of the roof.

In addition, clay tile roofing has the ability to resist wind due to its weight.

Snow is evenly distributed over the roof of this material, which minimizes the possibility of large snow masses coming off. It also has good sound insulation and is an environmentally friendly material.

Along with all the advantages, the clay version has one drawback - its high cost.

However, it is quite possible to make tiles with your own hands. Below are tips for making. It's also easy, it's like making a bench with a backrest with your own hands.

How to choose the right clay

It should not be greasy (otherwise it will crack during drying) or contain a lot of sand (does not tolerate severe frosts and absorbs water well). The breed that uses pots for making is ideal for this.